猛暑を避けるかのように出かけた先はその上を行く南京。でも南京から東京へ帰るくらいの距離にある甘粛省の敦煌に飛んで行ったことは意外に避暑となりました。まさにMy Diaryとしてここに記録することにしました。
The place where I went to avoid these scorching hot days was Nanjing in China whose heat attacked me much more. My trip to Dunhuang, however, in the west of China with my husband from Nanjing ended up with the feeling of summering which I didn't expect. Here is my brief diary recording what I experienced during these 10 days in China.
７月７日
予定通りと言いたいところだが8時半羽田発Air China、北京で乗り換えた飛行機が大幅に遅れて夕方２時間遅れで５時半に南京に到着。９時間かかったことになる。直行便なら半分で行ける距離なのに。飛行場には２か月前から南京のメディア大学で教鞭をとっている夫と夫の授業担当の李先生が出迎えてくれた。飛行場を出たとたんに大雨が。余り暑さは感じず、まさにスコールが一緒になって私を歓迎してくれた。
July 7th
My flight, Air China, took off Haneda, at 8:30 as scheduled, but another flight from Beijing to Nanjing was two hours delayed and it was at 5:30 in the evening when I arrived at Nanjing. It took me 9 hours in total from Haneda to Nanjing. It would have taken half of it if a flight was direct from Narita to Nanjing. The time difference is only one hour. So it was at 4:30 pm Japan time. I was welcomed by my husband who has been teaching in the University of International Communication in Nanjing since two months ago and Mrs.Ri sensei in charge of my husband teaching schedule. Then upon our going out from the airport, a big rain like a squall joined to welcome me.
In 40 minutes, we arrived at one of the apartment buildings for teachers on the campus. This university has 12000 students who are all living in the dormitories on the campus. Even apartments are facilitated for teachers. They are all well spotted in such a spacious premise. Few students were visible but I could imagine how busy the campus is during semesters. We were hosted by Mrs.Ri's family together for the dinner on that night.
昨晩は蚊と暑さに悩まされて熟睡できず。夫は蚊の攻撃を受けないらしく、対策が不備であった。
Unfortunately I couldn't sleep well because of mosquitoes.
今日は語学学部長のご案内で素晴らしい所に案内していただき、久々に美味しい中華料理を御馳走になった。July 8th
Today the director of the language department invited us for luncheon together with the secretary and his wife and Mrs.Ri at Seiryusansou which was constructed by some prominent people for the use of their needed occasions. The place was beautifully constructed in such a quiet and peaceful atmosphere. We were able to forget about the busy and nosy world outside for a moment. The most sophisticated Chinese dish were served.
夕方、夫がキャンパスを案内してくれた。学生寮、教室、アドミニストレーションオフィス、多目的コロシアム、図書館、トラック競技用グランド等々。中国にいるとは思えない非常にアメリカ的な緑豊かなキャンパスが広がる。後でわかった情報によると、「K先生が学生を連れてキャンパスを歩いていた・・」とある幹部の一人がFBに載せていたとのこと。私は学生に見られていたのでした！。
In the evening, my husband took me around in the campus to show me some facilities or buildings such as dormitories, classrooms, Administration office, multi-purpose
７月９日
今日は自由な時間があるということで、猛暑の中、南京観光に飛び出す。揚子江が一望できる閲江楼へ。南広学院キャンパスからバスに乗り（一律２元）、地下鉄（ディーティエ）始発駅の中
July 9th
My husband was free to take me out for sightseeing in Nanjing today. We chose a few spots to visit. First we went to Yijiangment(閲江楼） to have a look of the Yangtse River. We took a bus from the university to the metro terminal named Chinese college of Pharmacy. I was very much impressed with the newly constructed metro which is very clean, fast, modern and most updated train system. Also was I impressed with the view from the windows which shows us the today's Chinese economic situation going up rapidly. So many construction works were going on. And tens of universities were lined up along the metro rail. I felt lots of young energy there. Furthermore, it was surprising that my husband was called by his name "Kawaii Sensei!" in both metro and bus. Wherever he goes, he is found by some students. He has been popular on the campus. Refer to his home page http://kawaimasao.phpapps.jp
南京駅の凄さには恐々となる。寄ってくる人、物売りの人、旅人、様々な人のたまり場である。これから先の行動を懸念する私を有無を言わせず引っ張っていく夫が次にやることは腹ごしらえである。「腹が減っては戦は出来ぬ」を文字通り行く人である。喧噪の中をかき分けて行きついたところはうどん料理の大衆食堂。美味しいとは言えないものだったが、ひとまず落ち着いて目的地へのバスの乗り場を探す。バスに乗ったものの、駅名の表示がない。夫の積極的な中国語が唯一の頼り。五つ目で降りることを運転手から教えて貰い、無事目的地に。降りてから道行く人に又尋ねる。閲江楼（Yijiangmen）は何処？一人の女性から教わった正門からではなく、近いと思われた東門からアプローチ。
It's kind of awful to face such a busy and noisy public place like Nanjing station where I found myself for the first time. Some people approach to us for asking, some people want us to buy their goods and some are just wandering to get a chance. While I was getting nervous about our one day journey, my husband was very much concerned about our lunch to take first. "We cannot fight without eating." is his way to live. I was obliged to follow him, otherwise I surely might have got lost. We ate somehow noodle dish at a popular restaurant and started looking for No 10 bus station for Yijiangmen. We succeeded in getting on a right bus but in the bus there was no information on bus stops all the way. My husband talked to the driver where to get off and somehow or other we were able to get off at the right stop. Then we asked again somebody on the street the way to Yijiangmen(閲江楼）. In this way we always challenged to go through the difficulties by using our own skill and knowledge.
We found the admission fee free even for us foreigners over 60. Very generous! However it's ridiculous to pay for the modern escalator ride up to the top especially for the senior.
丘の上にある閲江楼は立派なもので、境内も美しかった。最上階へのエレベーターはロックさ
The structure of the temple was beautiful and the sacred enclosure as well. We wanted to climb up to the top by the elevator which was found by the entrance but it was locked. We tried the staff to let us use it and she was kind
楼閣と境内を炎天下の下を歩き回ってさすがに足が疲れてきた。南京市街を歩くのは断念して帰宿することに。地下鉄を降りた所まではうまく行ったが、キャンパスへのバスがなかなか来ない。バス停には白タクの男たちがたむろしている。こちらの風習なのか、彼らはやたらとTシャツをめくって太鼓腹を見せつけてくる。威嚇しているのか、肉体美を見せつけているのか、プーミンタイ。私達は忍耐強くバスを待つこと３，４０分。暑い中、疲労は困憊状態。ビールが飲みたいのは山々なれど、アパートには用意してないし、キャンパスの店は閉まっていて・・・夕食を学食で食べようとしたら、今日に限って６時半で既に終了。冷蔵庫の中の残り物で済ませることに。ひもじい思いも又貴重な経験となった。
We were so overwhelmed by such fatigue that we canceled our original idea to visit some more sight-seeing spots and decided to go back straight to the campus. The metro was so comfortable that we both fell into sleep. Very relaxed in the metro. However, at the terminal where we got off and waited for a bus bound for the campus coming, quite a few drivers of non-registered taxies occupied the bench showing their fat nude abdomens for some reasons. Because it's hot? Because they think they look big? Because they are powerful? Anyway we were patient enough to wait for a bus for three quarters. While waiting, I went back to be so exhausted again and dying for some beer. I know there was no beer in the refrigerator in his apartment. The shop on the campus might have been closed at this time of the day. Then we went to the cafeteria on the campus but we found it also closed. What a pity end of the day! We finished up eating some left-over things at his apartment with no beer! This experience of food and beer shortage will turn to be precious someday!
７月１０日
敦煌行きの日。13時にキャンパスからタクシーで緑口国際空港へ。昨晩夫が８０元で交渉しておいたタクシーは果たして来ているだろうか。確かに来ていてホッとする。約40分で到着。国内線はよく遅れるとは聞いていたが、案の定、２時間の遅れの洗礼を受ける。搭乗ロビーで待っている間、面白い光景に出合った。
July 10
Today is the day to fly to Dunhuang. We went to the airport by taxi which my husband made a reservation last night. Does he surely come to pick us up? My worry has gone when he shows up in front of us. But the flight was two hours delayed again. While waiting, I happened to find an interesting costume which one toddler is in. The pants are made so as not to hide the baby's bottom. What's your comment?
Those who have time might take a long distance bus from here to Dunhuang taking more than 10 hours. Our flight from Ranzou to Dunhuang took only 1.5 hours, but because of the delay it was 9 o'clock when we arrived at Dunhuang airport. In China they use only one fixed standard Beijing time in spite of its huge territory. It's still light in Dunhuang at 9 o'clock at night. It shoud be 7 o'clock or so there.
飛行場と複数ホテルをつなぐシャトルバスに乗り込んで予約のホテル、敦煌太陽温泉ホテルに９時半到着。飛行場から一番近いホテルであった。夫の中国語は通じる時とそうでない時があって、少々不安もあったので私にとっては偶然にも日本語の出来るスタッフがいてホッとした。ここでは３泊分を保証金として前払いするようになっていた。なかなか快適なホテルであった。明日、明後日の計画を彼女に相談しながら立て、ここではタクシーを利用しての観光がメインらしく、タクシーの予約を手配しておいた。We got on a shuttle bus which connects the airport with several hotels in the city. Our hotel named 敦煌太陽温泉ホテルwe reserved beforehand was the nearest one from the airport. I felt relieved when we found one of the hotel staffs could manage Japanese, for my husband's Chinese couldn't be understood sometimes because of the nuance of its pronuciation. We appreciated her suggestions where to go, what to visit and our itinerary was all set up including taxi reservation. Here the hotel charge has to be paid beforehand as security covering three nights. The room was clean, spacious and well facilitated except for the appliance attached to the bath tub in out of order. In general, the hotel itself was very comfortable.
７月１１日
July 11th
Got up at 7:00. It has been cool through night. Welcomed
such a beautiful, quiet, comfortable morning. I kept diary(small memo at random)
first. At 8:00 we were in an independent dining hall aside on the premise. Two
kinds of porridge, one is rice porridge and the other is millet. Two kinds
of dumplings, several kinds of vegetables, boiled eggs were served. Quite
healthy food. But no juice, milk, coffee were served.莫高窟にはタクシーで半時間ほどで到着。１３万程の人口の敦煌市（緑のオアシス）から砂漠に急変する様は驚きである。そして、あの砂の断崖の壁面に穴のある光景が広がってくる。
目的地に到着すると、ドライバーから携帯番号のある名刺を渡されて我々は単独行動を取る。
大勢の観光客（と言っても９９％は都市に住む中国人）に交じってチャレンジが始まる。
観光案内はガイド嬢によって完璧になされている。外国語は別として中国語のガイド役が無料で配置されていて、２０人ぐらいの観光客のグループを編成し、監視員が見張る中、てきぱきとイアホーンが配られてゲートを通り抜け、順次洞窟へと案内されて行く。観光客はガイドの説明をイアホーンを通して、静かに、熱心に聴く。全く喧噪もなく、すんなりと進行する。約２時間のツアーだが、ガイドさんは淀みなく、しゃべりっぱなし。まじめな説明（笑はないが、感心の溜息は漏れる）を長時間、炎天下の中、引っ張って行く方も、引っ張られていく方も実に熱心なのに感心するばかり。中国語のわからない私は聞いてわかったような顔をしながら、ただ、案内して説明された箇所を脳裏に刻んで、後で、本と照らし合わせるしかない状況にあった。
The guide is so well organized. Quite a few guides were stand-by and many visitors were divided into some small groupes of 20 people each one after another. Each group was taken by a professional guide to visit about 20 caves with sincere explanation and instruction for about two hours continuously. As I couldn't understand at all her Chinese explanation, I just followed her to assure which caves she took us in so that later I could refer to a book to make sure what they are.
４世紀から１９世紀までの１５００年間もの長い歴史がこの洞窟に集積されていることには本当に驚かされる。最後に案内された博物館展示室には、時代を経た文献、経文、書、などが保存されており、この１５００年にわたる文明の研究者の業績がわかるようになっている。諸々の文化、仏教、回教、チベット文化等々が集結され、シルクロードの中心地となっていたことなど、その重要さ、凄さを思い知らされた。何よりも、三蔵法師が壁画に描かれていて、日本の仏教の原点がここにあることに気づかされ、日本との関係の重さを再認識出来たことは大きい。
It's almost unbelievable that all this cultural heritage has been piled up and safely kept for 1500 years from 4th century to 19th. The last corner where we were taken in was very impressing with its desplay of the melting pot of multi-culture such as Buddhism, Islam, Tibetan religeon, etc.. The prominent scholars who have contributed to do research on this field are also introduced one way or another. Our great discovery was that the Buddhist priest, Sanzo, was drawn on some wall painting to tell us that Buddhism in Japan originated from here. We reassured the big relation between Dunhuang and Japan.
We called the taxi driver to join and we went to a small restaurant along the street near our Hotel for lunch. Then we went back to hotel once to have a rest and two hours later in the evening the same driver took us to the next sight-seeing spot called 鳴沙山・月牙泉.
生憎の天気というか、曇りがちでお目当ての美しい夕日を背景にした絶景は見れなかったが、それなりに砂漠の風景、それも大勢の中国人観光客で賑わう様子は又特別のものがあった。
１０００ｍ級の砂山を元気よく足で登る者がこんなに大勢いるとは。若者、学生、子供達。夏休みのせいもあろう。白人はほんの２，３人。砂除けのレンタルブーツを履いて、いざ登らんとしたが、２，３歩で断念。そのかわり、ラクダに乗って見た。一乗小１時間で１００元。観光客の為に働くラクダの数は５００はあった。初めてのラクダの乗り心地はいささか興奮物。ラクダの背は固くて、高い。ただ、ラクダの顔が余りにあどけなく、まつ毛、顎、頭の薄い髭が何とも寂しげで哀愁を漂わせる。その上、本当におのなしくて従順な動物であることがわかった。この経験から、ラクダが好きになり、夜、夜市で夫がラクダの肉を食べようとしたことに猛反対。お互い異なる価値観で意見がぶつかることに。
鳴沙山の裏手というか反対側に月欠泉がある。ここも家族連れで賑わっていた。ここの泉、オアシスは涸れたことが無い由。側に佇むお寺が又情緒のある風景を醸し出していた。オアシスの意味を今回はつくづく感じた。As it was rather cloudy, we missed the most beautiful view of the desert with the moon in the back, but it was fun to see those powerful people climbing up to the top of the desert mountain. We also tried but gave up after 3 steps. So hard. Instead, we challenged camel riding for the first time. Camels were so gentle and looked lovely with their thin but long hairs or eyelaches and big round eyes. They looked even sad. Do they enjoy their works? At least, they make so many visitors happy on their backs. I guess there might have been over 500 camels on duty there. They are very obedient to their owners who shout "Zou! Zou!" to let them sit down for the riders. I got a special feeling for them. On that night when my husband wanted to challenge camel meat for dinner, I strongly offended him. We found out we both have a different sense of value in this point.
７月１２日
今日は一日遠出のタクシー使用ということで500元の約束。昨日は近場だったので200元。The same taxi driver drove us for long distance today to six historical places located 70 to 80km west from the city Dunhuang. The charge was 500Yuen because of its long distance while it was 200 yesterday
①敦煌影視城（古城を利用した撮影場所）
②西千仏洞
③阳关遺跡
④河仐城・玉門关・汊長城
②は莫高窟にならぶ断崖を削った文化遺跡 だが砂ではなく砂利という地質のため、多くが崩壊している。③はシルクロードの西のゲートとして栄えた所で、博物館があり、当時の様子がわかる文献、絵などが展示されている。唐の詩人王維の詩に「西のかた、陽関を出でずれば故人無からん」と詠われた古代の関所といわれている。ここからの茫洋たる風景を目にすると、シルクロードが繁栄した歴史に思いを馳せたくなる。④の汊長城は万里の長城の西の端にあり、漢時代のもの。かなり風化していて北京でみた石造りの頑丈な長城とは面影が随分異なる。汊長城は漆喰で出来ている。ここで、上海から来たという４人組の女性と談話。久しぶりに英語で会話が出来た。
At the last spot, the west gate of the Great Wall, we happened to have a nice conversation with a groupe of four ladies from Shanghai. They were amazed to find that we were here all the way from Japan to visit all these historical sites in the desert. I felt very comfortable to be able to talk in English this time.
２日目は６か所を訪れたことになる。最初は今日は雨かもという予想で傘を持参して出かけ、涼しいスタートであったが、実際には砂漠の暑さを経験することになる。道中の砂漠の風景は印象深い。点々と緑の木々が伸びるオアシスが広がり、まさにラクダの隊商が続く世界が想像できる。オアシスとオアシスの間には、しょぼしょぼと小さなん灌木が点在。棘のあるサボテン科の植物で、一見、細くてしなやかで小さなピンクの花を持つやさしい植物にみえるがそうではない。根っこの太い幹の方に水分がたっぷりあるらしい。野生のクダの餌となる植物である。
It was cloudy and rather cool this morning and it seemed we would have rain today. However on the desert was it hot even without the sun out. The scenery of the desert was very impressing. An oasis is spotted one after another having a certain distance between each with green trees and plants. The plants in the desert, a kind of cactus with needles which look skinny but which have lovely pinkish small flowers impressed me. They say that they have big roots with lot of water in them. That's why wild camels are fond of eating them.
遠くには固められ風化した砂山の山脈が見える時と、全く３６０度視界が砂の平地の時がある。道路は一直線で一車線。結構スピードを出して車が行きかう。かつての中華民国のイメージは無い。フリーの世界である。赤い旗もない。毛首席の写真もない。そして動物も見当たらない。Another specific scenery of the desert is noticed when the desert is flat. The sand mountains are seen far beyond the green of some oasis behind the sand(desert). And the beautiful blue sky with white clouds are covering all of them. I was just captured by this fascinating nature surrounding me all around.
もう一つ、砂漠で大発見したこと。それは砂漠の塩である。固い砂地に点々と白いまだらが目立ち、実際舐めてみると塩である。地質にミネラルを含んだ良質の塩分があるのだという。案の定、その塩を採掘している機械と白い塩の山を目撃した。One more thing we discovered in the desert is the existence of salt. We stopped the car and we tried it to make sure it was salty. As a matter of fact we found some mining machine through the car window.
今日は敦煌から南西へ７０ｋｍのところの遺跡や、更に北上して敦煌から８０ｋｍのところにある西の関所とか万里の長城の果てなど円を描くように３００㎞ぐらいは走っただろう。ドライバーも大変だったに違いない。私達もかなり疲労困憊して夜市にたどり着いた時は気が抜けそうであった。その上、更にお土産を探したり、何を食べるか屋台を物色して歩いたり・・最後まで目一杯関心を向ける。この夜市には音楽演奏もあり、女性ボーカルの歌はなかなかのものであった。この市場で昨日はウリを買ってホテルで食べてみたが、非常に美味しかった。敦煌は果物が特産で美味しいことで有名であるとのこと。
ホテルに戻ったら１１時を回っていた。
This "night market" is the place where we had dinner and shopped some souvenirs. As it gets late, it becomes busier. Many local people or visitors come here to do grocery shopping or to enjoy eating or chatting. Some entertainment performance makes it more enjoyable. I was able to listen to a lady singer who was quite good. This is the place where people enjoy themselves after working all day long. Dunhuang produces many kinds of fruits which are so sweet. We also bought one melon-like squash which turned to be so sweet. It was after 11 o'clock when we came back to our hotel. Such a long day and the last day for us in Dunhuang. exhausted.
７月１３日
南京への帰りのフライトは夜８時ということで午前中は敦煌市の博物館へ。ここで、展示された作品をゆっくり鑑賞し、お土産ショップで拓本をかなり入念に選び、スタッフと買い物の交渉に相当時間とエネルギーを使った。これも面白い経験となる。市内はタクシーで移動。一律５元。
July 13
Our flight back to Nanjing was sheduled to depart at 8 o'clock in the evening, therefore we went to the museum in the city to make use of extra day. We had enough time to appreciate the desplay carefully not in such a crowded situation as in other museums, especially in Japan. Also had we plenty of time to choose some souvenirs or gifts in the museum shop. We enjoyed talking with the staffs, (one of them could speak Japanese) and we negotiated the prices. There were only few shoppers. She said not many Japanese visitors are seen this year. One thing we regreted later is that we should have bought more books about Dunhuang Mogaco Caves which are not available in Japan even through Amazon. We moved around by taxi in the city, Taxi charge was fixed for 5 Yuan if within the city.
夕方ホテルに戻り、約束通りに昨日、一昨日運転してくれたタクシーが迎えに来てくれた。そして無事南京へのフライトに搭乗。南京には真夜中の到着。白タクが沢山たむろしている。だいたいの料金を知った上で交渉して無事にアパートに戻ることが出来た。アパートから飛行場までは８０元で予約したが、帰りは真夜中ということもあり、１２０元で合意。
Once back to our hotel where our luggages were safely kept, we waited for the driver who took care of us for the previous two days. He was very honest and this time he didn't charge for the ride to the airport. With a good feeling, fortunately, we were able to fly back to Nanjing but very late at midnight. We had no taxi reserved, so we just challenged to find whatever available. There were quite a few private drivers approaching to the travelors and we conceded to the one who proposed 120 Yuan to the campus while we were charged for 80 the way to the airport four days ago. Anyway the safety was the most important, especially the last stage of the trip.
敦煌から帰って見ると、南京はやはり、猛烈に暑い。湿気がある。冷房と蚊取り線香がフル回転
となる。
Back in Nanjing, we felt much hotter and humid. A small mosquito killer and a big airconditioner are in full operation.
７月１４日
今日一日はアパートの整理、掃除と手続き等にとってあったので、外には一寸出かけたのみ。二ヶ月とはいえ、新しい環境の中で教鞭をとった夫の挑戦に頭が下がる思いであった。
July 14
Today is the last day in Nanjing and as we planned before, we put the things in order and cleaned the apartment which was pretty disorganized during the last two months. As doing cleaning works, my mind was occupied with what my husband had challenged in these unfamiliar surroundings and devoted himself for the sake of young Chinese students so as to look at the wider world through many different people and cultures, then establish their hope in the future to come. His strong initiative to do what he can from his experiences might have been highly appreciated by his students and the people concerned. The most appreciative thing is that he really enjoyed teaching and having a good friendship with the students.
７月１５日
９時３０分 帰国の途につく。再見 ツァイイチェン！
July 15
We left Nanjing at 9:30 for Japan. See you again!
