一寸いい旅(Just a lovely, healthy and meaningful trip)
パリの凱旋門をくぐり、約10日間のパリ旅行を終えて無事帰ってきてから一週間になる。時差の問題は全く無いのに、留守中に滞っていた雑用に追われ、他のスケジュールが優先してなかなか旅行のまとめが出来なかった。今日から少しづつ書き留めて行こうと思う。
パリの凱旋門をくぐり、約10日間のパリ旅行を終えて無事帰ってきてから一週間になる。時差の問題は全く無いのに、留守中に滞っていた雑用に追われ、他のスケジュールが優先してなかなか旅行のまとめが出来なかった。今日から少しづつ書き留めて行こうと思う。
( It has passed one week since we came back from Paris where we spent about 10 days. I couldn't start writing my blog right away because of my miscellaneous duties left behind during my absence. Now I've got ready to start.)
夫がノルウェー勤務を終えての帰路、パリに寄ったのが2003年の10月で8年前のことになる。その前に1986~1989までパリ勤務をしているのでそれからだと四半世紀を経ている。当時は3人の子供たちがそれぞれ、小、中、高とフル回転の教育真っ只中にあって、親として試練の時であった。今回、夏休みを利用して、ノルウェーのベルゲンとオスロに一週間づつリサーチ研究に行っている夫が、その後パリに寄り、何人かの人に面会することになっている。合い間の時間に昔を偲びつつ新たな気持ちで一緒にパリを歩くことにより、何か新しいエネルギーが得られるかもしれない。そのタイミングに合わせてパリ行きを思い立ったのである。細かい予定は立てず地図を見ながら臨機応変に足が向く所に行くことにした。ある時は、「ここには以前来たことなかった!」とか「今回初めて見る!」などとアルツハイマー序曲を奏でて夫に呆れられる時もあった。一度あることが二度とおこらないよう、今回の旅行は克明にメモを取った。ここでは一部をかいつまんで雑感を交えて旅の報告としたい。
( It was 8 years ago when we dropped in Paris only for several hours on the way back home from Norway after finishing Masao's assignment there. I never forget our farewell reception at the official residence which happened to be held exactly on my birthday. As for Paris, we were stationed in Paris from 1986 to 1989, which is almost a quarter century ago. We were in the most difficult time at that time from the view point of our three children's education. We were concerned with every stage of schools, high school, junior high and primary school.
This time, Masao visited Norway for his research study, one week in Bergen to be followed by another one week in Oslo. He also has several engagements to meet some people concerning his study in Paris too. Taking this opportunity I myself made up my mind to come alone to Paris to walk around and see more what I had missed during our stay there a quarter century ago. Hopefully he can find a free time to share with me. By doing so, I believe I'll get some fresh energy to activate my life from now on. I didn't make any detailed plan. I'll see where to walk and where to go depending on my feeling of the day.
I'm afraid I easily forget about what I experience. I already have that symptom. Masao often points out my poor concentration. "We have been here before. We used to come here with our children. We let them play here. Don't you remember? " He is almost disgusted at my poor memory. He is right. I need to be more conscious about what I face to. My excuse used to be my wide range of concerns, as a busy wife, as a busy mother of three children at one time. It doesn't work any more now. I have to agree that my concerns might have poorly been concentrated. Well this time I decided to keep diary for my future memory. This is a summary of my report on my vacance in Paris. )
(Sept.9(Fri) The first day of my trip alone. AF275, Departure time 11:50 from Narita→Arrived at Paris at 16:35(7 hours difference. Fright hours 10 hrs. in general), Airport car, dept.17:50→Montparnass 19:20. A round trip 27€.)
パリ在住で、半世紀も前、京都での学生時代からの友人茂子さんのワンルームマンションをお借り出来たことは本当にラッキーであった。彼女がバスターミナルまで遠路迎えに来て下さってまず安堵した。そこから、アパートまで徒歩で20分と聞いていたが、パリの道は結構ややこしい。大きなスーツケースをゴロゴロいわせながら道を探すことを考えると、容易ではなかった筈である。ともかく彼女と再会出来たことがすべて幸運の始まりであった。
(We are very lucky to be able to rent a studio of my friend,Shigeko-san, who has been my good friend since our university period. She is married to a French gentleman. I felt relieved to find her at the Montparnass bus terminal waiting for me.It took about 20 mins. walk down to the studio. We walked together talking loudly in the noise produced by my big luggage. It might have been difficult to find out her studio if I was alone in such a busy area. My meeting with her is the beginning of the all good lucks in my short stay in Paris this time. )
アパートに辿り着くと、彼女がわざわなざ作って持ってきてくれたキーシュを一緒にいただきなが、再会を祝した。パリに来る直前に知ったお孫さんの病気のことが心配であったが、彼女はひたすら私たちの有意義で楽しいパリ滞在を望んで下さり、申し訳ない思いと感謝の気持ちが交錯したスタートとなった。彼女のご厚意に応えるべく有意義にパリの街を歩こうと思った。パリの西郊外のマルメゾンの近くのご自宅から電車で1時間以上かかってモンパルナスまで出向き、夜10時を回って帰宅の途につかれた。滞在中、もう一度お会いする約束をして。
(Upon our arrival at the studio, we sit at a table to congratulate our meeting again, talking and enjoying some home made kische brought in by her. I have been worried about her grandchild's disease,leukemia, which was informed of just before my departure from Japan. He is only 3 years old. She was so thoughtful not to make me worry, instead, she just hopes our stay in her studio makes us feel comfortable and makes our visit to Paris meaningful. I decided to spend this short time in full energy to respond to her kindness. Her home is located in the west near to Malmaison, lovely castle, more than an hour away by train. It was after 10 at night when she excused herself to go back. We promissed to see again once during our stay.)
ここで、ドゴール空港からのバスの中で得た幸運を記しておこう。日本を出る前、彼女から親切にもわざわざプリペイドのテレフォンカードが郵送されてきていたので、それを使って飛行場から彼女に到着を知らせるべく電話を試みたが、通じない。時間を取るより、早く、ともかくモンパルナスのバス停まで行った方が良いと思ってバスに乗ってしまった。隣に座っていたご婦人がしきりと携帯で話をしている。彼女は仕事の話である。一段落した頃を見計らって、お隣同士になったよしみで声をかけたところ、結構会話が続く。経営マネッジメントの専門家で、日本にも講演に行ったことがあるという。あちこち、世界中を歩いて仕事をしている様子が伺えた。私が、テレフォンカードの話をすると、「よかったら、私の携帯でお友達に連絡しては?」と言ってくれた。実は私の本音はそこにあった。内心、ラッキー!と叫んで、彼女の携帯を拝借して、茂子さんと連絡がとれたのである。どこでも気の利く優しい人がいるものである。見ず知らずの者に気持ちを察知して好意を提供してくれる。いつかどこかで逆の立場に立った時の自分を思い描いた次第。嬉しいフランス人の印象であった。
(Here I want to report my good luck occurred to me in the bus from the airport. At the airport I tried to call Shigeko-san to let her know my safe arrival by using the prepaid telephone card sent to me beforehand by air mail, but it didn't work. I got on a bus anyway to see what will happen at the terminal at Monrparnasse.The lady sitting next to me was busy with talk on her mobile. She sounded like an elite career woman. When she was released from the mobile, I talked to her to say hello. She responded. Taking this opportunity we felt comfortable and we talked to each other more. She has been visiting many countries including Japan to conduct a lecture or seminar on business management. She sounded a real career woman. Then I touched upon my prepaid telephone card which I showed her and asked what's wrong with the card. She suddenly offered me her mobile without hesitation instead of finding out the problem. I was so glad to be able to contact Shigeko-san who was also happy to be sured about my arrival. She was supposed to see me at the bus terminal. I really appreciated that lady for her generosity and kindness. Everywhere in the world such nice people exists to help strangers with no doubt. I promissed to myself to return this goodwill when I will be in the opposite situation. I really got a very good impression on French people.)
(Here I want to report my good luck occurred to me in the bus from the airport. At the airport I tried to call Shigeko-san to let her know my safe arrival by using the prepaid telephone card sent to me beforehand by air mail, but it didn't work. I got on a bus anyway to see what will happen at the terminal at Monrparnasse.The lady sitting next to me was busy with talk on her mobile. She sounded like an elite career woman. When she was released from the mobile, I talked to her to say hello. She responded. Taking this opportunity we felt comfortable and we talked to each other more. She has been visiting many countries including Japan to conduct a lecture or seminar on business management. She sounded a real career woman. Then I touched upon my prepaid telephone card which I showed her and asked what's wrong with the card. She suddenly offered me her mobile without hesitation instead of finding out the problem. I was so glad to be able to contact Shigeko-san who was also happy to be sured about my arrival. She was supposed to see me at the bus terminal. I really appreciated that lady for her generosity and kindness. Everywhere in the world such nice people exists to help strangers with no doubt. I promissed to myself to return this goodwill when I will be in the opposite situation. I really got a very good impression on French people.)
Raspail通りのMarcheで |
(Sept.10(Sat) Around noon, my husband, Masao, arrived at Paris. He flew from Oslo. He took the same airport bus and I welcomed him at Montparnasse as I did yesterday. We both were relieved to meet each other. I worked his laundly first and prepared a simple lunch; big vegetable salade and delicious baguette. Masao, who has such an enormous interest in precious life, took me out for grocery shopping first. He doesn't want to commute to a brasserie or a restaurant to eat every day. He wants me to cook by using fresh ingredients to be found in marche(open market) or in a super market. They have many kind of good food materials which we cannot easily get in Japan. Instead of being dipped in high calorie French food, we had better cook by ourselves to enjoy our own work. One of the advantages or relaxation for house wives on vacation is to be able to get rid of cooking and spending much time in the kitchen. I was a bit disappointed to Masao's wish in the beginning but I came to agree with him. That's a way of making my stay more precious and meaningful. We were happy to find a big mushroom called Portobello. We bought half kilo of mussels, boiled shrimps, wine, milk, olive oil, butter, garlic, juice, salt and pepper, almost all basic materials for cooking. Masao's priority, I can see, is to prepare food. That must have been one of what he thinks the most important for the safety in living. That is what he believes from his long term experience in his career. We didn't forget to buy some bottles of mineral water.)
Raspail通りとSaint German 通り が合流するあたり、ロダンのバルザック 彫刻の側で |
9月11日(日)今日はエドガーキネ通りからラスパイユ通りに出て、徒歩でずっとセーヌの方まで歩いて、オルセイ美術館に行くことにした。ラスパイユはサンジェルマン通りにぶつかる。途中ロダンの彫刻バルザックの銅像が高く聳えているのに出会う。今日は雨模様であったことと、パリの日曜日というのは普通の店は閉まっているので、物寂しい。歩きながらウインドウショッピングをするのも悪くない。かなり歩いて美術館に辿りついたところ、長蛇の列が目の前にあった。並ぶ前にセーヌ川まで足を延ばし、行きかうバトームーシュ、セーヌ右岸のパリならではの建造物を眺め、茜色ではないグレイのパリの初秋を味わう。
(Sept.11(Sun) We decided to walk all the way up to Musee d'Orsay through Ave.Raspail from Edgar Quinet where the studio is located. Ave.Raspail hits Ave.Saint German where we found a big bronze statue of Balzac by Rodin. It was drizzling and most of the stores were closed on Sunday. We enjoyed window shopping in rather quiet atmosphere. When we arrived at the museum, we found a long queue at the entrance. We decided to have a walk along the quai to enjoy a beautiful view over the Seine for half an hour and went back to the queue to join.)
(Sept.11(Sun) We decided to walk all the way up to Musee d'Orsay through Ave.Raspail from Edgar Quinet where the studio is located. Ave.Raspail hits Ave.Saint German where we found a big bronze statue of Balzac by Rodin. It was drizzling and most of the stores were closed on Sunday. We enjoyed window shopping in rather quiet atmosphere. When we arrived at the museum, we found a long queue at the entrance. We decided to have a walk along the quai to enjoy a beautiful view over the Seine for half an hour and went back to the queue to join.)
2時ごろから長蛇の列に加わり、待つこと30分。いろいろな言葉が聞こえてくる。世界中から観光客が集まっていることを実感。パリには年間2000万人の観光客が来るという。オルセイ美術館、ルーブル美術館、ノートルダム寺院などが一番賑やかである。何回来ても見ごたえがあるところである。それこそ、前に見た筈のものが初めてのような気がして、夫に半分心配の目で見られたりする。感動できるだけ、健康の証拠だと自分では納得しているのだが。閉館時間の6時まで目一杯鑑賞して外に出ると、美術館への階段の下の広場では路上芸人が人集めをしている。外は8時ごろまで明るいのでパリの午後は一日に相当するくらい長い。私達は、何となくメトロの入り口を探しながら帰路についたが、結果的に、キネのアパートまで歩いてしまった。足が少々疲れたがパリだから出来たプロムナードであった。
(It was around 2 o'clock when we joined the queue. We waited for half an hour. Many different lanquages were being talked around, which means there are many tourists from all over the world. It's said that 20 millions tourists come to Paris a year. They surely visit famous art museums such as Orsay, Louvre, Orange etc. There are many other sightseeing spots. I have been here before several times, but still each time I feel I am here for the first time. Each time I got a different impression. That's why Masao feels disgusted at my poor memory. I myself am proud of my fresh feeling. We stayed inside until the closing time at 6:00. This time I enjoyed the section of Art nouveau which recall my Nikko Woodcutting. Down the steps in front of the museum, one street performer was trying to attract the visitors' attention by making funny pantomime. The day in Paris is long. It is light until 8 o'clock at night. We again walked back to Edgar Quinet. Physically my feet got tired but my spirit was up. "This is Paris! I cannot miss this precious promenade!". )
Musee d'Orsayの入口の長蛇の列 |
(It was around 2 o'clock when we joined the queue. We waited for half an hour. Many different lanquages were being talked around, which means there are many tourists from all over the world. It's said that 20 millions tourists come to Paris a year. They surely visit famous art museums such as Orsay, Louvre, Orange etc. There are many other sightseeing spots. I have been here before several times, but still each time I feel I am here for the first time. Each time I got a different impression. That's why Masao feels disgusted at my poor memory. I myself am proud of my fresh feeling. We stayed inside until the closing time at 6:00. This time I enjoyed the section of Art nouveau which recall my Nikko Woodcutting. Down the steps in front of the museum, one street performer was trying to attract the visitors' attention by making funny pantomime. The day in Paris is long. It is light until 8 o'clock at night. We again walked back to Edgar Quinet. Physically my feet got tired but my spirit was up. "This is Paris! I cannot miss this precious promenade!". )
9月12日(月)今日は午後夫がアポの為私は一人でパリ市街を歩き回ることに。その前に近場でgrocery shoppingをし、更に本場のカフェを味あうことにした。いわゆるコーヒーはこちらではエスプレッソーである。cafe fonce とは濃いコーヒーという意であり、アメリカンなど無い。いつもアメリカンを量で飲んでいる私にとっては、一寸戸惑いがち。ディナーの食後のコーヒーならデミタスでということをよくやったが、喉が渇いた時のコーヒーには合わない。水が一緒に出てくるくらい濃いのである。更に甘いクッキーが一緒に添えられてくるので、そうなるとこの濃いコーヒーは美味しいと思う。cafe au laitはモーニングタイムに限る。コーヒー一つとってもいろいろ意見が言えるのも楽しい。
(Sept.12(Mon) Masao has an appointment this afternoon, therefore I decided to walk alone aroun in the center of Paris. Before that, we went out for grocery shopping first and went into a coffee shop to taste a genuine French cafe, dark strong coffee in a demitasse, so called 'expresso'. There is no American coffee here which I drink every day in a big quantity. It comes with a glass of water and small sweets aside. This way a strong coffee tastes good especially when we need some rest. I love sitting in a corner filled with coffee smell. Masao tried to smell all the coffee beans displayed by the counter and ask about them to the lady in charge. He seemed to enjoy having a conversation in French with her.)
(Sept.12(Mon) Masao has an appointment this afternoon, therefore I decided to walk alone aroun in the center of Paris. Before that, we went out for grocery shopping first and went into a coffee shop to taste a genuine French cafe, dark strong coffee in a demitasse, so called 'expresso'. There is no American coffee here which I drink every day in a big quantity. It comes with a glass of water and small sweets aside. This way a strong coffee tastes good especially when we need some rest. I love sitting in a corner filled with coffee smell. Masao tried to smell all the coffee beans displayed by the counter and ask about them to the lady in charge. He seemed to enjoy having a conversation in French with her.)
Charles de Gaulle広場でChamps Elysees 通りを背にしてーさあ!歩きますよ! |
L'Arc de Triompheの屋上からの眺め |
(We got on a subway at Raspail, the nearest metro station from our studio, to go to Etoile. From there Masao went to the Japanese Embassy on the ave.Hoche while I went to the L'arc de Triomphe to climb up to the top roof for the first time which has a beautiful view of the city of Paris divided by 12 radial avenues. The authority has controled the city to keep the most beautiful view in the world. Some skyscrapers are sticking out in far distance outskirt of the city. As seen in the photo up on the left, I occupied the little space where I stand with my arms up to show my energy to start walking from this point. The view far behind me is Concorde.)
L'arc de Triompheの建設はナポレオン軍隊の栄光を称えて19世紀初めに着工されたが、1840年になってナポレオンの遺骸が迎え入れられたという。凱旋してここを通ったのは1940年ドイツ占領下でフランスを勝利へと導いたドゴール将軍であり、以後、エトワール広場はシャルルドゴール広場と呼ばれているとのこと。国の為に散った兵士の名誉が象徴的に追悼されているところである。
(The construction work of L'arc was started in the beginning of the 19th century to honor Napoleon's Armed Forces but it was his body that was welcomed later in 1840. It was Charle de Gaulle who passed through this L'arc de Triomphe after his victory against German occupation in 1940. Since then this L'arc has been named Ch.De Gaulle Etoile.)
(The construction work of L'arc was started in the beginning of the 19th century to honor Napoleon's Armed Forces but it was his body that was welcomed later in 1840. It was Charle de Gaulle who passed through this L'arc de Triomphe after his victory against German occupation in 1940. Since then this L'arc has been named Ch.De Gaulle Etoile.)
凱旋門をスタート点として私の歩きが始まる。まずAve.Hocheへステップイン。凱旋門を背にして左側が偶数の番地。女優Kさんのパリ生活デビューの場がNo.10ということを知って、それを探す。すぐに見つかった。高級マンションの一角にある。50余年前も今と変わらない風情であっただろう。彼女のエッセーを読み返しながら、他人事とはいえ、何か深い思いが伝わってくる。彼女の強靭な精神と意思を改めて想像してみる。日本女性として誇らしく思える女優さんである。
(My walk started from the Etoile. I stepped into the Ave.Hoche. The buildings on the right side have odd numbers while even numbers on the left. I have a book of photo essay written by the actoress K and I know the number 10 used to be her residence half century ago. The building with number 10 was easily found. It is in the high-class apartment buildings. The area still keeps the same atmosphere of high-class residences. I feel some deep sentimental thought even if it concerns with other people. I imagine her strong will and spirit through her essay. I am overwhelmed when I imagine about her enormous efforts to get along well with her late French husband and his family, his society around. She is one of the Japanese women who I'm very much proud of.)
(My walk started from the Etoile. I stepped into the Ave.Hoche. The buildings on the right side have odd numbers while even numbers on the left. I have a book of photo essay written by the actoress K and I know the number 10 used to be her residence half century ago. The building with number 10 was easily found. It is in the high-class apartment buildings. The area still keeps the same atmosphere of high-class residences. I feel some deep sentimental thought even if it concerns with other people. I imagine her strong will and spirit through her essay. I am overwhelmed when I imagine about her enormous efforts to get along well with her late French husband and his family, his society around. She is one of the Japanese women who I'm very much proud of.)
更に下がって行くと、彼女が書いているように、200mぐらいのところでMonceau公園にぶつかる。
(I walk further down the avenue for the distance of about 200m as written in the book to hit Monceau park.)
(I walk further down the avenue for the distance of about 200m as written in the book to hit Monceau park.)
Parc Monceauの入口 |
Monceau公園入口横にあるEcole |
(Monceau park has such a nice and comfortable atmosphere that citizens enjoy sitting on benches surrounded by seasonal beautiful flowers. A group of school children are having their outdoor class in a corner while a baby sitter is caring a baby nearby. Cityzens are having their own time in different ways in a relaxed mood. I made a tour in this park and went back to the entrance, then I found some parents or gardians waiting for the kids to come out from the school which looks one of those apartment buildings. The school(ecole) is located just by the entrance out the parc. This scene recalls our old days to my mind back in the years of 1986,87,88,89 when we lived in Paris and I was occupied with our children's school matters. )
そのまま今度は左側の歩道を上がって行くと、日本の国旗が二つ目の前に現れた。奇数番地の日本大使館とOECD日本政府代表部のビルである。Ave.Hocheの分離帯にはベンチがある。しばしそこに座って人々の行きかう様子を眺めたり街の息遣いを感じてみる。 ベンチからの目線は道路をさまよい、紙屑やゴミ、そして犬の糞がころがっているのが見える。早朝に清掃車が来て水を流し、一応きれいにしていく筈であるが、おおざっぱである。人の手で丁寧に清掃はしていない。午後ともなると又もとの汚れに戻る有様である。みんな気にならない様子。日本の環境への意識の高さが断トツだと思えてくる。ペットの置き土産の後始末に至っては群を抜いていると思った。先日も日光の我が家の近くで、いつものウオーキングをしている時、犬の便を手を汚さずに、新兵器を使って受け取っている 飼い主を目撃したことが思い出される。パリはお犬様の気の済むようにどこにでもさせて放置したままである。税金を払っているのだから、こういった公衆のことは行政がきちんとやることで、個人は関与しないとでも言いたげである。私が時々やるように、ウオーキングをしながら、紙屑やたばこの吸い殻を拾っている人はいないに違いない。環境への配慮は個人の意識が大きな力となる筈である。衛生的にもいかがなものかと最高の美的感覚を持つ国民に問いたいところである。
(I continued to walk upward the avenue on the left side to find our national flags, one for our Embassy and one for the Japanese mission office for OECD. I sat on the bench in the green belt in the avenue to have a rest and watch the pedestrians or businessmen walk back and forth. I feel them breathe. Eventually some trash and gifts from dogs came into my eyesight. They send wagons to clean the streets in the city early in the morning but it doesn't look effective. The celaning is left in the machine operation not in the hand of pets' keepers. It seems nobody cares. Nobody looks conscious of the cleanness of the streets. I'm very much proud of Japanese people's deep consciousness of keeping their surroundings clean by themselves. It's a question of nation's concern about the environment.)
もう少しHoche通りを上がるとSt.Honore通りにぶつかった。そこで左折して有名ブティックが次々と並ぶ通りを東に下がり、エリーゼ宮をかすめてマドレーヌ寺院まで歩く。途中で見た高級ホテルのビルの景観は素晴らしい。手すりのエレガントな形といい、飾られたゼラニウムの花が整然とした美しさを誇っている風景である。ホテルは角から二軒目にあたる。
(I walked up to meet Saint Honore street. I turned to the left to walk all the way this street down to Madelaine temple. On the way I enjoyed window shopping at some famous brand shops. Also I admired such beautiful hotel building as seen in this photo. Its windows are accentuated by well harmonized geranium flowers in the same color, which produce an air of grace and dignity.)
(I walked up to meet Saint Honore street. I turned to the left to walk all the way this street down to Madelaine temple. On the way I enjoyed window shopping at some famous brand shops. Also I admired such beautiful hotel building as seen in this photo. Its windows are accentuated by well harmonized geranium flowers in the same color, which produce an air of grace and dignity.)
マドレーヌ寺院はエンタシスが特徴。さすがに観光客が多い。寺院の周りの広場には明らかに移民風の女性が地べたに座って手を差し伸べている。一方で高級ブランドの店が取り囲むように並んでいる。複雑な思いがしてしまう。昔を想い出してFauchonに入ってみた。いろいろな紅茶、チョコレート、クッキーの匂いがする。昔よりも品数が増え、グッヅも増えている。日本人観光客が必ずと言っていいほど来るところである。日本人の店員がいるのをみてもわかる。ここのリンゴティーは本当に香りが良く、美味しい。お土産を買ったのはいいが、その後は重い荷をしょってのプロムナードとなってしまった。Vendome広場やOpera座へは後日行くことにして、そのままセーヌ河畔に出ることにした。コンコルド広場を横切る時に見たChamps Elysees通りの美しかったこと。歩道の汚れが見えないこの写真を撮った角度は最高であると思う。前方にEtoileが聳え、その向こうにはDefenseのGrand Arcがかすかに見える。
(The area around Madelaine temple is crowded with many tourists. Most of the brand shops are also located to attract tourists' attention. Behind the rich side is the other side where quite a few unhappy people sitting on the street with a message in front 'I'm hungry!" A contradiction of the society is visible there. Well I was concerned with some souvenirs from Paris to my family. I entered Fauchon store to buy tens of apple tea cans. I used to buy tea there before. Then with a heavy bags in my hands I continued to walk to the quai of the Seine through Concorde enjoying the nice view of Champs Elysees toward the Etoile and the Grand Arc in the Defense far beyond the Etoile on the way.)
(The area around Madelaine temple is crowded with many tourists. Most of the brand shops are also located to attract tourists' attention. Behind the rich side is the other side where quite a few unhappy people sitting on the street with a message in front 'I'm hungry!" A contradiction of the society is visible there. Well I was concerned with some souvenirs from Paris to my family. I entered Fauchon store to buy tens of apple tea cans. I used to buy tea there before. Then with a heavy bags in my hands I continued to walk to the quai of the Seine through Concorde enjoying the nice view of Champs Elysees toward the Etoile and the Grand Arc in the Defense far beyond the Etoile on the way.)
Concorde広場からの凱旋門とChamps Elysees通りの街並みが素晴らしい |
どんよりした天気だったが心は晴れやか。パリに来ているんだという実感があった。コンコルド橋の袂からQuai沿いに上がり、途中からF.Roosevelt通りに入ってChamps Elyseesに抜ける。最後は凱旋門に向かってひたすらChamps Elyseesの歩道をゆっくり歩いて上がって行った。夕方のBrasserieはどこも繁盛している。みんなテラスで飲みながら会話を楽しんでいる様子である。とにかく、パリはどこのBrasserieも時間に関係なく賑わっている。一方で、小銭を乞う人が必ずいる。しかし、ここでは心に余裕のありそうな乞食を見た。毛並みの良い犬を三匹クッションの上に寝そべらせて高級ブティックの前に座っている。そして、通行人と何やら楽しそうにしゃべっている。きれいなフランス語でである。
(It was cloudy out but fine in my heart. I assured myself I am in Paris. The promenade from the bridge Alexandre III to the Etoile through some streets in between was enjoyable. The promenade in the last part along Champs Elysees game me a different impression on the poor. I saw one man sitting by an entrance to some fashionable store with three well tamed dogs sleeping on a long coushon in front. He looks healthy and enjoys talking with a man passing by. He doesn't look poor but he put his message 'J'ai faim(I'm hungry)!" On the other hand, many brasseries with open terraces are full of people mixed with tourists and local people who might be on the way back home from their working places. I enjoy listening to their sweet-sounding French.)
(It was cloudy out but fine in my heart. I assured myself I am in Paris. The promenade from the bridge Alexandre III to the Etoile through some streets in between was enjoyable. The promenade in the last part along Champs Elysees game me a different impression on the poor. I saw one man sitting by an entrance to some fashionable store with three well tamed dogs sleeping on a long coushon in front. He looks healthy and enjoys talking with a man passing by. He doesn't look poor but he put his message 'J'ai faim(I'm hungry)!" On the other hand, many brasseries with open terraces are full of people mixed with tourists and local people who might be on the way back home from their working places. I enjoy listening to their sweet-sounding French.)
通行人なのか同僚なのか犬を側に 侍らせてゆったりしたホームレス J'ai faim.と書いた段ボール紙が前に 置いてある。 |
小銭を乞う女性も見かけた。さまざまである。後日、夫と歩いたオペラ座ちかくのギャラリーラファイエット前の観光客で混雑した路上には明らかに障害のある子供を横に寝かせて、訴えるような表情の両親の姿を見たが、何とも痛々しい光景であった。でも、そういう人達は放任されたままなのか疑問に思ってしまう。中東からの難民の様であった。凱旋門からはさすがにメトロに乗り、20分ぐらいでアパートに到着。7時頃であった。まだ外は明るい内であった。先に戻っていた夫から冗談交じりに「捜索願いを出そうと思っていた所?」の発言あり。 すぐに、朝仕入れた食材で夕食作り。立派な白アスパラとブロッコリー、ステーキをワインでいただいてふ~!歩きまくった一日に流石に素直な疲れが襲った。
(I also observed a woman with a beautiful cat aside which was in a peaceful sleep. She had a message in front "J'ai faim!" Later when I walked with Masao by the department store Galerie Lafayette, we saw one couple sitting with their son,who apparently looked handicapped,lying on the street crowded with many pedestrians. It was very depressed to know this kind of problem in the society still exists in Paris. They might be some immigrants from the Middle East.
I went back home by metro from the Etoile and it was around 7 o'clock, still light outside. Masao was already home. He joked me on my late return by saying "I was about to report to the authority so as to look for you!" I rushed to prepare dinner by using ingredients we bought this morning. Beef steak with white asparagus, broccoli and nice wine which comforted my exhaustion.)
(I also observed a woman with a beautiful cat aside which was in a peaceful sleep. She had a message in front "J'ai faim!" Later when I walked with Masao by the department store Galerie Lafayette, we saw one couple sitting with their son,who apparently looked handicapped,lying on the street crowded with many pedestrians. It was very depressed to know this kind of problem in the society still exists in Paris. They might be some immigrants from the Middle East.
I went back home by metro from the Etoile and it was around 7 o'clock, still light outside. Masao was already home. He joked me on my late return by saying "I was about to report to the authority so as to look for you!" I rushed to prepare dinner by using ingredients we bought this morning. Beef steak with white asparagus, broccoli and nice wine which comforted my exhaustion.)
9月13日(火)パリの朝は暗い。6時には起床してしまう私は、朝の遅い夫がアイマスクをしているのにホッとして電気を点け、昨日のメモの整理をする。今日は午後から夫はアポが重なるので、午前中に一緒に昔住んでいた所に行ってみることにした。Raspailの駅からメトロでPassyへ。Radio francaisのあるRaynourd通りを南西に下り、Fontaine通り、そしてPoussin通りへと歩く。私達の住んでいたアパートはHotel d'Auteuilの向かい側であったのですぐわかる。このホテルには当時、フレンチオープンに参加する日本女子選手が何人か泊まった所で、ウエアの洗濯を我が家でやったものである。雉牟田選手をよく覚えている。お蔭で当時は家族ぐるみで運動としてテニスをやっていたこともあり、ローランギャロスに何度行ったことだろう。まだクリスエバートやサバチーニ、マッケンロー、コナーズ、アガシー、レンドル、ビランデル、マイケルチャン、エドバーグといった相当たる選手が活躍していた頃である。ステフィーグラフが頭角を現した頃であり、伊達選手もいた。杉山選手もデビューしたころであった。松岡修三選手もいた。こういった名前が出てくるだけ、当時の私のテニスへの関心は高かったのだろう。ゴルフに移ったのは、あれから5年後、NYに転勤してからである。ローランギャロスは歩いて10分ぐらいの所だった。Porte d'Auteuilに近い所で、サッカーで燃えるParc des Princesもある。その頃はサッカーなど私は関心が無かった(夫は中学生の時、栃木県の優秀選手に選ばれたこともありサッカーで騒ぐフランス人をよく理解していた)。競馬のHippodrome d'Auteuilも隣接するブーローニュの森の中にある。場所的には大変恵まれた所であったと今になって思う。ここに25年振りに来て、当時の生活のリズムが蘇ってくる。小、中、高と三人の子供たちの様子が思い出されて感無量となる。
(Sept.13(Tue) The morning starts late. I am an early bird in Paris as used to be. While Masao is still in bed, I sit up at table to write my diary. This morning we decided to visit the place we used to live a quarter century ago. From Raspail to Passy by metro. From Passy we walked down along Raynourd street on which Radio francais is located, and to Fontaine street then to the rue Poussin along which our apartment was located. Across the street is Hotel d'Auteuil which Japanese tennis players participating in the French Open used to stay. During our stay in this apartment for 3 and a half years, some of them used to come to our apartment to use our washing machine for their tennis wears. Thanks to this connection, we often went to Roland Garros which is located in 15 mins.walking distance. We were lucky to be able to see those big players' matches, such as Chris Evart, Savatini, Mackenro, Coners, Agacy, Rendle, Virandel, Michel Chan, Edberg etc. We remember Matsuoka too. Date and Sugiyama were there in their early stage. We enjoyed watching so many professional games there. We also played tennis a lot whole family with friends. Parc des Princes for football games is also nearby and so is Hippodrome d'Auteuil for horse race. Now I can see this surrounding is perfect but those days I didn't realize it enough. Then I was moved with our visit after 25 years interval which put me back to our life rhtym those days involved in our children's education. )
上が私達のアパートの庭になっていた。ディナーの時など、飲み物を持って、そのままリビングから庭に出られるようになっていた。そのくらいの広さがあったその庭も二分されたとのこと。アパートも細分化されたのだろう。どこも同じ。(Sept.13(Tue) The morning starts late. I am an early bird in Paris as used to be. While Masao is still in bed, I sit up at table to write my diary. This morning we decided to visit the place we used to live a quarter century ago. From Raspail to Passy by metro. From Passy we walked down along Raynourd street on which Radio francais is located, and to Fontaine street then to the rue Poussin along which our apartment was located. Across the street is Hotel d'Auteuil which Japanese tennis players participating in the French Open used to stay. During our stay in this apartment for 3 and a half years, some of them used to come to our apartment to use our washing machine for their tennis wears. Thanks to this connection, we often went to Roland Garros which is located in 15 mins.walking distance. We were lucky to be able to see those big players' matches, such as Chris Evart, Savatini, Mackenro, Coners, Agacy, Rendle, Virandel, Michel Chan, Edberg etc. We remember Matsuoka too. Date and Sugiyama were there in their early stage. We enjoyed watching so many professional games there. We also played tennis a lot whole family with friends. Parc des Princes for football games is also nearby and so is Hippodrome d'Auteuil for horse race. Now I can see this surrounding is perfect but those days I didn't realize it enough. Then I was moved with our visit after 25 years interval which put me back to our life rhtym those days involved in our children's education. )
なつかしの35Rue Poussin |
女性のコンシエルジュに昔の話をして中に入れて貰おうとした が今の住人に断られた。この入口の右手にガレージがあり、その
裏通りに美味しいパン屋さんがあったので行ってみたら、構えは変わっているものの健在であった。
(We visited our old place and greeted a lady concierge. We explained our life here 25 years ago. Our apartment was on the second floor having a garden made on the garage downstairs. Our guests were out in this garden for a drink before dinner. She said the second floor was divided into two apartments. We wish could have seen upstairs.)
(We visited our old place and greeted a lady concierge. We explained our life here 25 years ago. Our apartment was on the second floor having a garden made on the garage downstairs. Our guests were out in this garden for a drink before dinner. She said the second floor was divided into two apartments. We wish could have seen upstairs.)
向い合せにあるHotel d'Auteuil |
近場で昼食に入った店で食べてみたピッツァは残念ながらいただけなかった。パリでは軽食としてはやはり美味しいバゲットを使ったオープンサンドにすべきであると後悔。更に当時気がつかなかったのに今回発見したことがある一つある。Musee d'Orsayで見たArt nouveauのデザインのある家の手摺とフェンスを見つけたのである。柔らかくて優雅な曲線がいかにも女性的というのか、実際にこうして街中で見られて文化の香りが漂っていることを実感した。
(Some of the shops in the neighborhood are the same and some are changed. The food we tried to eat in a new shop wasn't good. We regreted what we tried and I felt the quality of the restaurants in the neighborhood became unfavorable. One thing I felt happy was that I found an apartment building nearby with a decoration of Art Nouveau on handrails out on the terrace as seen in the photo below. I feel a historical taste which is elegant and dignified.)
(Some of the shops in the neighborhood are the same and some are changed. The food we tried to eat in a new shop wasn't good. We regreted what we tried and I felt the quality of the restaurants in the neighborhood became unfavorable. One thing I felt happy was that I found an apartment building nearby with a decoration of Art Nouveau on handrails out on the terrace as seen in the photo below. I feel a historical taste which is elegant and dignified.)
Art nouveauのデザインをした 手摺とフェンス |
どちらも英語が使えないのでフランス語でのインタビューとなる。今回は外交官の立場ではなく、研究者として自由に質問し、話が出来るということで、改めて夫の関心の高さと根性に圧倒され感心させられた。夫は約1時間半もかけて、第二外国語であった筈の仏語でパリのイスラム組織の幹部であり、イスラム教徒をまとめている人を相手に、9.11事件以降のテロリストのこと、ノルウェーで起きたテロ事件のことなどを恐れることなく尋ねる。パリ、いや、ヨーロッパにおけるイスラム教徒の情況というか、動向を知りたいのである。彼も、解りやすいフランス語で丁寧に応答してくれる。さすが、上に立つ人は説得力を持って落ち着いて話されると思った。フランス人口の10%を占めるまでになったイスラム教徒の話。パリではイスラムの五つの戒律の執行が難しいが、今はイスラムの存在が大きくなっているだけに、Extremistになるべきではなく、寛容の精神で他の宗教とも折り合って行こうとしているとのことであった。融和政策である。私も同行してそういう場にいられたことに感謝した。イスラム協会の副会長Mr.Hafizは落ち着いた恰幅の良いイスラム教徒であり、フランス国民であり、弁護士である。移民は1974年頃までは肉体労働者として虐げられた出稼ぎ労働者であり、特に炭鉱労働者が多く、単身赴任であったという。1979年のイラン革命でパリに亡命していたホメイニ師の存在からイスラム教徒の存在がvisualになり、フランス人と同じように教育を受け、努力する者は社会的地位も得られるようになってきた。フランス社会に溶け込もうとする人種的無差別の統合を目指す穏健な社会を作ろうとしている話だった。テンションの上がる面会であった。
(In the afternoon, we directly went to the office to meet an officer who kindly made an arrangement for Masao to have several interviews with some important people. Two of them are top leaders of Islamc society in Paris. In order to execute these interviews, English is not available. French is the language we use this time. Masao wanted to meet the Islamic top leader to get the most updated information on their activities and their discipline. Masao feels free to talk with them as a reseacher this time not as a diplomat any more. I was very much impressed with his positive attitude by using his second foreign language with a great effort to know what he is interested in. The first interview was held in the evening in the office of the big man, Mr.Hafiz, who is a vice president of the Islamic association in Paris. He is a descendent of an immigrant from Tunisia. He was highly educated in France to become an elite lawyer. His modest and intelectual way of talking was impressive and appreciative. He also tried to speak as clearly as possible. Masao asked about the terrorisme occurred in NY and Oslo. He calmly responded that his society is against those terrorismes which have been expanding all over the world. He touched upon the Islamic population in Europe which is increasing up to 10% which has become visual more and more. In the beginning, many immigrants from French colony were involved in the hard physical works such as mining, but now, those who make efforts can get any kind of jobs if they want. It's fair in many ways except for a few matters related to the religeon. In France they are trying to go into French society to get well along with the local people. They don't stand against the local people. The expansion of Islamic society shouldn't frighten the people but mix well toward the peace. He is against Extremists. He put a stress on the point that they should respect different religeons. He sounds very modest and very persuasive. He aims to establish an Islamic society with no racial discrimination. An integrated society is his hope. He seems to be a moderate Moslem.)
こうして、今回の旅は私にとっては、単なる息抜きの旅ではなく、夫の仕事を覗く機会を与えられたことで、一味違ったものとなった。昔を忍ぶだけのセンチメンタルジャーニーだけに終わらず、つまり、過去だけを見るのではなく、新しいエネルギーを感じて、まだまだ面白いことが沢山あるこれからの人生を生きるべきと考えるきっかけになったことは確かである。Edgar Quinetの友人のアパートの近くにモンパルナスの墓地がある。パリでCimetiere de Pere Lachaiseに次いで二番目に大きな墓地である。夫とそこを訪れて、大哲学者のサルトルとボーボアールのお墓を見たが、お墓ってその人にとっては何だろうと思った。きれいなお花が添えられて、結局後に生きている人達の心に何かを伝えることはあっても、中に眠る人には何の影響も与えない。生きていてこその人生だと思う。後で、夫にキリスト教とイスラム教の大きな違いは何だろうと話し合った時、前者には死後の世界があるが後者には無い。後者には現世のみがあるのではと思うようになったが、そうであると、生きている時に、無限にあるこの世の面白さを追求してこそ人生の意義があるのかもしれない。
(In this way, for me, this vacation was not only to get a fresh air but also to assist my husband in his work. The trip gave me a chance to think about how to live from now on in the world where still exist so many interesting and precious things I don't know yet. There is Montparnasse cemetery near from the studio where we stay along Edgar Quinet street. It is the second biggest cemetery next to Cimetiere de Pere Lachaise where Maria Callas is sleeping. We visited this cemetery and found two tomb laid next to each other. One is for the great philosopher,J.P.Sartre and the other for his eternal partner, Simon de Beauvoir(?). I wondered what is the meaning of these tombs for the dead. Two small beautiful bouquets were on the tombs devoted by somebody who wanted to show his respect toward them. The living can express their feelings, but nothing for the dead. The life is only for the living. Later we discussed about a big difference between Islamic religion and Christianity. In the former there doesn't exist the world of the dead, while in the latter it does. If so, I feel like being in the former. The meaning of the life may exist in the effort to challenge the limitless fun and interest.)
この後、夫は又別のアポがあった為、私は帰路Salle pleyelに寄ってコンサートのチケットを求めた。パリオーケストラのシーズンが明日から始まるということで、初日はもう完売。15日のチケットをかろうじて購入出来た。グルジア出身の若い女性ピアニスト、Khatia Buniatishviliがショパンのピアノコンチェルトを演奏する。楽しみである。後ろの方のオーケストラ席で一人65€。
(After this interview, I parted from Masao who had one more interview with a French officer. I stepped in Sall pleyel to purchase two tickets for the concert to be conducted by Paris Orchestra on Thursday. We are lucky to be in this time because the season starts tomorrow. A young pianist from Georgea, Miss Khatia is to perform the piano concerto by Chopin. I'm looking forward to it.)
9月14日(水)夫はアポの為、9時に外出。今日は男女共同参画の専門家とのインタビューとのこと。私は一人で兼ねて予定していた所を歩くことに。まず、水曜日と土曜日に開くEdgar QuinetのMarcheに行って、夜の食材の買い出しをする。天気が良くて、陽が射すと肌が痛いほどである。時間があったので、遊び心でアクセサリー売り場を覗いた。若いお兄さんが売り子できれいなフランス語を話す。言葉の練習にはこういう場が似合う。マダムにはこれが似合うとか、あれも素敵だとか、すぐ壊れない?などというと、とんでもない、しっかり出来ているとか、何個か買えば安くできる?などなど。そういえばイアリングのことをBoucle d'oreilleって言ったっけ?ぶらさがるデザインのものは Boucle d'oreille qui descendで良かったかな?やりとりが楽しめる。Bagueも遊び心溢れるのが見つかって、結局ピアスと指輪3点で10€は超安い。すぐ壊れてもいいと喜んで買った。毎日のように使っているがまだ壊れていない。素晴らしい買い物だったと満足している。
(Sept.14(Wed) Masao left for an another appointment at 9:00. He is to have an interview with an expert on Gender Equality. I decided to walk in the area I had planned before. First, I went to the marche along Edgar Quinet street which open two times a week, on Wednesday and Saturday. I looked for some materials for dinner tonight. It was a beautiful weather with the strong sunshine. I enjoyed talking with a man who was selling small small accessories. He managed his French very softly and beautifully. I spent some time to find my taste. Finally I decided some pieces, two pairs of earings and one ring. Then I had a fun to bargain them, enjoyed exchanging the talk with him. I was very much satisfied with what I bought.)
私の注文に応じてRougetをフィレに しているところ。最後にパセリを大量 おまけしてくれた。 |
そうそう食材の方は魚と野菜。マルシェではまず品定めをして何を買うか決めてから列に並ぶのがマナーである。今日は、Rouget Barbetという鯛の一種を二匹、Creubets rosesという蒸したエビをdemi kiloに決めて並ぶ。魚はフィレにして貰ったが、その手さばきの美しいこと。三枚におろして、骨を取り、小骨をピンセットで巧みに素早くとっていく。プロのなせる業である。結果的にこのエビはノルウェーのベルゲンのフィッシュマーケットで買って食べたエビには負けるが(夫の評価)、私は美味しいと思った。レモン汁をかけて食べると最高である。Rougetの方は、ガーリックを利かせてソテーに。
(As for materials for dinner, I bought some fish and vegetable. At marche, customers are walking around to look for what they want to buy first. Once they decide what to buy, they wait in a queu, which is their rule. We shouldn't cut the line. We have to be patient as we do in Japan at a bus stop. I followed their way. I checked which fish to buy. Then I wait for my turn. When it's my turn, I ask for two rougets(a kind of sea bream) and ask the seller to make them fillet. He removed all small bones as seen in the photo above. He did very well in professional way. Also I asked him to add half kilo of boiled shrimps which were taste enough, but not so good as the one in Bergen. The sea bream saute turned out to be very delicious.)
(As for materials for dinner, I bought some fish and vegetable. At marche, customers are walking around to look for what they want to buy first. Once they decide what to buy, they wait in a queu, which is their rule. We shouldn't cut the line. We have to be patient as we do in Japan at a bus stop. I followed their way. I checked which fish to buy. Then I wait for my turn. When it's my turn, I ask for two rougets(a kind of sea bream) and ask the seller to make them fillet. He removed all small bones as seen in the photo above. He did very well in professional way. Also I asked him to add half kilo of boiled shrimps which were taste enough, but not so good as the one in Bergen. The sea bream saute turned out to be very delicious.)
Grenelle橋の袂でNYに向いて立つ 自由の女神(statue of Liberty) |
買い出しが終わって一旦宿に戻り、Raspail地下鉄駅よりBir Hakeimへ。セーヌ河には30個ぐらいの橋がかかっているが、この橋は唯一二重構造になっていて、上側はメトロが走り、下側は車道と歩道になっている。エッフェル塔に行くにはこの駅が近い。今日は、まず、エッフェル塔と反対側に二つ目のGrenelle橋の袂にある自由の女神を見ることに。この銅像はNYの自由の女神と向かい合っている。アメリカが独立した時にフランスが贈ったという意味のある銅像である。近くで見たら意外に大きい。そして、エッフェル塔に向かってセーヌ河沿いの白鳥の小路をプロムナード。1時間ぐらいゆっくり散策。K女優さんの足跡を偲びながら。
I went back to the studio once after grocery shopping, then went out again for sightseeing. From Raspail metro station to Bir Hakeim which is one of about 30 bridges over the Seine.
I went back to the studio once after grocery shopping, then went out again for sightseeing. From Raspail metro station to Bir Hakeim which is one of about 30 bridges over the Seine.
Iena橋からのEiffel塔 |
Palais de Chaillot(Torocadero)~Iena橋~Tour d'Eiffel~Ecole militaireを結ぶ一直線の景観は何度みても見事である。エッフェル塔は相当な鉄の量を使っているそうで、今の技術ならこの何十分の一で済むとのこと。重みはさることながらレース状のデザインが美しい。全体の優雅な形がこの鉄のレースで更に優雅な美しさとなっている。ハンガリーのブダペストで見たあのダニューヴ川にかかる橋もEiffel氏の作品だそうだ。白亜の宮殿が向こうにあり、夜、ライトアップされたタイミングで車で渡ったあのチェーンブリッジである。あの時は宮殿が幻のように目の前に浮かび、感動したものである。昼間のエッフェル塔は観光客が一杯である。しかし、この塔の脚の向こうにあるParc du Champ-de-Marsは美しく後方に伸び、士官学校へと続く。
The grand view of the straight line with Palais de Chaillot-Iena bridge-Tour d'Eiffel-Ecole militaire on is always great! It's said that the quantity of the iron material used for this Tour is enormous. If it had been constructed with today's technology, the quantity must have been reduced to less than 10%. However, the elegant lace-like design is beautiful. The construction of powerful weight looks very impressive mixed with such an elegant design. The lace made from iron is just the simbol of French culture. The bridge over the Danube in Budapest which we saw before is also the work of Eiffel. I can see the similarity. I still remember that very impressive chain bridge. It was lit up at night time and the white castle beyond the bridge on the hill looked dreamlike and mysterious. Parc du Champ-de-Mars is full of tourists with lots of noise, but the view under through the tour expands far away in a perspective and dynamic way toward the ecole militaire.)
The grand view of the straight line with Palais de Chaillot-Iena bridge-Tour d'Eiffel-Ecole militaire on is always great! It's said that the quantity of the iron material used for this Tour is enormous. If it had been constructed with today's technology, the quantity must have been reduced to less than 10%. However, the elegant lace-like design is beautiful. The construction of powerful weight looks very impressive mixed with such an elegant design. The lace made from iron is just the simbol of French culture. The bridge over the Danube in Budapest which we saw before is also the work of Eiffel. I can see the similarity. I still remember that very impressive chain bridge. It was lit up at night time and the white castle beyond the bridge on the hill looked dreamlike and mysterious. Parc du Champ-de-Mars is full of tourists with lots of noise, but the view under through the tour expands far away in a perspective and dynamic way toward the ecole militaire.)
更にQuaiづたいに下がってAlexandreIII橋へ。これは一番豪華絢爛たる橋である。この橋への途中、写真展をやっていた。現代作家のものでいろいろ思想を含んだ作品が並んでいた。その中に、岡原という日本人の作品があった。係りの女性に尋ねたところ、パリに常駐してはいないが活躍している人だという。大震災のことに触れて、日本人の内に秘めた忍耐強さのようなものが感じられると言っていた。
(I walked further up to the bridge AlexandreIII which is the most gorgeous bridge. On the way I happened to step into an exhibition of photos by modern artists with lots of unique and elaborate ideas and technique.
Among them was Mr.Okahara's work who has been quite active in Paris according to a lady in charge who kindly explained about this exhibition. She touched on the great disaster in North-East Japan and she said she could feel some patience kept quiet in Japanese people's heart.)
(I walked further up to the bridge AlexandreIII which is the most gorgeous bridge. On the way I happened to step into an exhibition of photos by modern artists with lots of unique and elaborate ideas and technique.
Among them was Mr.Okahara's work who has been quite active in Paris according to a lady in charge who kindly explained about this exhibition. She touched on the great disaster in North-East Japan and she said she could feel some patience kept quiet in Japanese people's heart.)
説明文は読まなかったが女の子の 表情が二重に重ねられて焦点がわざと ぶれていた。何を訴えているのか。 |
れまた圧巻である。ドーム教会にはナポレオンが眠っている所である。いかにも、英雄を称える景観である。この橋はロシアの皇帝を迎えたとき、最高の栄誉を現して建造されたものだそうだ。なるほどとうなづける。
(The view of the bridge AlexandreIII is another big panorama with Grand Palais on the right and Invalides on the left. In the dome church is laid in state Napoleon. It's the view to pay homage to him. This bridge was constructed at the time when France welcomed the Russian emperor. Now I can understand that gorgeousness.)
(The view of the bridge AlexandreIII is another big panorama with Grand Palais on the right and Invalides on the left. In the dome church is laid in state Napoleon. It's the view to pay homage to him. This bridge was constructed at the time when France welcomed the Russian emperor. Now I can understand that gorgeousness.)
さて、ここからInvalidesの方向に向かい、敷地を左に迂回する形で進むとロダン美術館がある。ここには後で夫と来ることになっているので今日は、その前を通って、世界で一番古いという老舗のデパートLe bon marcheに行った。NYでは世界で一番大きいと言われているデパート、Macyに行って、確かにそのスケールの大きさと品物の豊富さに驚いた。パリでは世界で一番古いというデパートが見たいと思っていた。25年前来たかどうか定かではない。多分今回初めてだと思う。当時、日本からのVIPをショッピングに案内しながらサンジェルマン界隈を回ったことがあったが、ボンマルシェにお連れした記憶は無い。今回は又女優Kさんのエッセイを読んで、是非と思っていた。確かに、時代に合わせて内装を考え、改装もしている。中は大変モダンである。そして、洋服など、かなり高級品が並んでいる。日本の著名なデザイナーのものも売っていた。お土産には手が出ないと思った。しかし、中が吹き抜けになっているところは見通しが良く、あか抜けている。あちこちにソファーが置いてある。高級感とスマート感がある。旅行のお土産を探すような所では無いことがわかった。
( From that bridge I walked down to the Invalides then walked along outside the premise on the left to hit Rodin museum which I will visit with Masao later. Today I just passed it and went to Le bon marche, the oldest department store in the world.. I asked its location to many people on the way. In March this year when we visited NYC, we went to Macy department store which is the largest in the world. Now I'm in the oldest department. It's surely old but it has been renewd to respond the taste of the time and it looks very modren and sophisticated. The goods are well displayed in big quantity. The quality of the merchandises is in high class. I wasn't sure if I had been there last time when we were posted in Paris 25 years ago. I wanted to visit this store according to Mme K's recommendation in her book. I didn't buy anything but I enjoyed beeing in there.)
( From that bridge I walked down to the Invalides then walked along outside the premise on the left to hit Rodin museum which I will visit with Masao later. Today I just passed it and went to Le bon marche, the oldest department store in the world.. I asked its location to many people on the way. In March this year when we visited NYC, we went to Macy department store which is the largest in the world. Now I'm in the oldest department. It's surely old but it has been renewd to respond the taste of the time and it looks very modren and sophisticated. The goods are well displayed in big quantity. The quality of the merchandises is in high class. I wasn't sure if I had been there last time when we were posted in Paris 25 years ago. I wanted to visit this store according to Mme K's recommendation in her book. I didn't buy anything but I enjoyed beeing in there.)
Au Bon Marcheと書かれた玄関 ボンマルシェで(お買いもの)
ということなのだろう。
|
Bon Marcheの中 |
便利さという点では、コンビニもないし、
不便である。だから、Brasserieはいつも人がいる。文化の違いだと思う。喉が渇いた時、一寸一休みしながら、おしゃべりをしながらということになる。一杯のコーヒーも時間と向き合って味わう風土の違いなのだろう。そうなるとやはり文化の違いを感じる。
道の反対側にはLe Bon Marcheと書かれたビルがあり、多分それが元の店舗なのだろう。
(There was a corner with one vending machine of water bottles installed. We cannot find any vending machine in the city of Paris. There doesn't exist any convenience store. That's why, I think, many brasseries in the city are always busy. This is a difference in culture.
Two people playing the flutes in the subway |
When they get thirsty, they sit on some brasserie terrace and get a rest with a drink. Having a rest they enjoy a talk. With a cup of coffee, they enjoy spending a time. That's the way they do. )
2時までに帰宅の約束をしていたのでSeveres Babylons駅からメトロに。パリの情景を語る時、必ず出てくるのがメトロでの素人音楽人である。車両の中に入って歌を歌ったり、楽器を弾いたり様々であるが、皆小銭を稼ぐためである。詩を朗読する人もある。サポートして下さいと訴える人も。メトロ駅の通路でやっている人達はレベルが高いそうである。ひどいのは当局がやらせないとか。確かに、自分のCDなど積み上げてパフォーマンスしている。バイオリン、笛、が多い。この人達は実力派であり、ここからデビューしていく人もあるとか。バイオリンのケースの中にはコインが溜まっていく筈だが・・・それより自分の実力を理解して欲しいということなのかも知れない。
(I promissed to be back by 2:00, so I was in a hurry to get on the subway at Severes Babylons near from the department. Here again, I saw two men playing the flutes. They looked Spanish. When we describe some unique aspects found in the subway, we cannot miss pointing out many private concerts being conducted in the trains and on the platforms or in the corridors connecting subway lines. Some of them are very good. They need not only some coins but also people's support and understanding to get positive encouragement in their performances. Some of them have their own CDs laid in front for sale. )
帰宅したら夫はすでに待機していて、4時のアポに遅れるといけないからすぐ出るという。行先はパリ市から北の郊外。Sait Denisである。昨日に続いて、イスラム組織のトップのHajiに面会することになっている。この方もフランス語でということであった。私も一緒に出かけた。
(Masao was waiting for me when I got home. We left right away for Saint Denis in the suburbs of Paris in the north to see another big man in the Islamic society in France. This Haji also requires French language in the interview. This time again I was lucky to accompany my husband to have another interesting experience.)
(Masao was waiting for me when I got home. We left right away for Saint Denis in the suburbs of Paris in the north to see another big man in the Islamic society in France. This Haji also requires French language in the interview. This time again I was lucky to accompany my husband to have another interesting experience.)
Raspail→Place d'Italie→La courneuve le 8 mais 1945という独立した年月日入りの名前のついたメトロ7号線の終点駅まで。そこからバス(Tram)で二駅。更に歩いて15分。人に尋ねながら目的地に丁度4時到着。何か治安のあまり良くない所なので、タクシーで行くことを勧められていたが、私達はあえてこの方法を取り、地元の雰囲気を肌で感じることを心がけた。目的地はモスクであったが、いわゆるモスクの外観をしていない。学校の体育館のような所であった。途中、信号待ちの所では、後進国で見かけるように、子供が止まっている車にやってきて、窓ガラスを拭かしてくれと頼む。小遣い稼ぎである。後で帰国する時、空港バスがここを通った際、改めてホームレスのテントが続く一角があることに気が付いた。そういう場所であったのである。
( In order to go to Saint Denis which seems to have a little security problem, we were brave enough to take subway all the way to La courneuve le 8 mais which is the name of metro station after the date of the independence. Then we took a bus(tramway) to the second stop to be followed by a walk for a quarter minutes. We had a difficulty to find out our destination on the way. On the way we witnessed a boy approaching to a car stopped at the trafic lights. He wanted to wipe the front glass for a coin, which we often observe in some developing countries. We were recommended to take a taxi from Paris, but we wanted to take public transportation so that we could feel the atmosphere in the district. The people we asked our direction on the way were kind enough and we were able to reach our destination which is a mosque. This mosque, however, doesn't look like an ordinary mosque but just like a gym of some school.
Later when we were on the airport bus from Montparnasse to the Ch.De.Gaulle, we happened to see an area for homeless people with tents. It was in such an area.)
( In order to go to Saint Denis which seems to have a little security problem, we were brave enough to take subway all the way to La courneuve le 8 mais which is the name of metro station after the date of the independence. Then we took a bus(tramway) to the second stop to be followed by a walk for a quarter minutes. We had a difficulty to find out our destination on the way. On the way we witnessed a boy approaching to a car stopped at the trafic lights. He wanted to wipe the front glass for a coin, which we often observe in some developing countries. We were recommended to take a taxi from Paris, but we wanted to take public transportation so that we could feel the atmosphere in the district. The people we asked our direction on the way were kind enough and we were able to reach our destination which is a mosque. This mosque, however, doesn't look like an ordinary mosque but just like a gym of some school.
Later when we were on the airport bus from Montparnasse to the Ch.De.Gaulle, we happened to see an area for homeless people with tents. It was in such an area.)
初めてお会いする人との面会はやはり不安もある。でも、このHajiもなかなかの紳士で、落ち着いて対処してくれた。マスコミ的に情報を取りにきたのではないことを確かめたかったのだろう。En cadre de recherche?と念をおされて質問されて強烈な印象を受けた。昨日同様、約1時間半にわたっての談義で、夫も精力的によくフランス語で頑張って話が出来ると感心してしまう。内容は昨日と同じようであり、反応も同じようであった。穏健で好印象を持った。東京のイスラム協会の人は自分の友人でよく知っているとのことで親しみが感じられた。息子さんは今中国に行っているとも。
(I was a bit nervous but also anxious about this kind of special interview. This big man, Haji, was also a gentleman. He was calm and kind to welcome us. After our greetings, Masao started explaining about why he wanted to meet him and raised his questions on the updated information on the Islamic activity. This man was careful enough to make sure my husband was here not for mass media but for his own research work Just like yesterday, Masao was very concentrated on the subject to ask about. This gentleman gave us the same impression as the one we got yesterday. Moderate, modest, soft and kind. What they seek for is the integration. He doesn't agree with extremists. Why do we think that they are trying to expand their phylosophy, principle and belief? He informed us of his friend who is stationed in Tokyo for his duty in Tokyo chapter of Islamic association. He started as a leader of his Islamic association and ended up as an ordinary father whose son is now in China on his business. )
(I was a bit nervous but also anxious about this kind of special interview. This big man, Haji, was also a gentleman. He was calm and kind to welcome us. After our greetings, Masao started explaining about why he wanted to meet him and raised his questions on the updated information on the Islamic activity. This man was careful enough to make sure my husband was here not for mass media but for his own research work Just like yesterday, Masao was very concentrated on the subject to ask about. This gentleman gave us the same impression as the one we got yesterday. Moderate, modest, soft and kind. What they seek for is the integration. He doesn't agree with extremists. Why do we think that they are trying to expand their phylosophy, principle and belief? He informed us of his friend who is stationed in Tokyo for his duty in Tokyo chapter of Islamic association. He started as a leader of his Islamic association and ended up as an ordinary father whose son is now in China on his business. )
無事に目的を果たし帰路も同じルートを逆戻りで7時頃帰宅。すぐ夕食の準備に。
(We took the same route to go back home safely. It was around 7:00. I started preparing dinner.)
(We took the same route to go back home safely. It was around 7:00. I started preparing dinner.)
9月15日(木)今日は夫がフリーの日ということで夫の希望でブローニュの北の外れにあるBagatelle公園に行き、昼はこれまた夫が忘れられない南仏の田舎料理であるCassouletという鍋料理を出すお店を探して行くこと、更に、ロダン美術館に行くという目標で一日が始まった。そして最後はSalle playelでの8時からのコンサートが待っている。
(Sept.15(Thurs) Since my husband has no appointment today, we went to Bagatelle Park located in the north of Boulogne. This is one of the places he wanted to visit to recall the time we used to take our children there. Then we planned to look for the restaurant where they offer a special French country food called cassoulet. He looked for a restaurant where this cuisine is available through Internet. We found out the location and the telephone number of the restaurant through Internet. Then we will go to Rodin museum. Then we will end up with the concert at Salle playel.)
(Sept.15(Thurs) Since my husband has no appointment today, we went to Bagatelle Park located in the north of Boulogne. This is one of the places he wanted to visit to recall the time we used to take our children there. Then we planned to look for the restaurant where they offer a special French country food called cassoulet. He looked for a restaurant where this cuisine is available through Internet. We found out the location and the telephone number of the restaurant through Internet. Then we will go to Rodin museum. Then we will end up with the concert at Salle playel.)
広いJardinにクジャクのカプルが贅沢 に憩う。 |
帰路はBagatelle→バスでPoint de Neuilly→Etoile→Trocaderoまで乗り物で移動し、TrocaderoからはTour d'Eiffelの近くにあるというCassouletを出すレストランへもう一度エッフェル塔のある景観を愛でながら歩き続ける。このレストランは今朝、出かける前にインターネットで探し、電話をして確認しておいた所である。46Ave.De la BourdonnaisにあるAu petit Sud Ouestというレストランである。好天気に恵まれ、沢山の観光客で賑わう中を泳いでやっと目的のレストランを探し当てた。もう午後の2時を回っている。嬉々とした夫の目は輝きを増す。お腹も十分空いている。目標を決めてそれを達成するということ。その達成感が人間を成長させる。そこに違いが出てくるなどと夫に言われて妙に納得。レストランの雰囲気も気に入り、夫は次のランドマークが出来たと喜ぶ。
(Raspail→Etoile→Porte maillot→Bagatelle by using subway and tram. Masao told me that we used to take our children here to let them play on Sundays. But I don't remember well, which disappointed him. There is a huge flower garden and trees aside. We entered this garden and enjoyed watching some couples of peacocks having a peaceful time. Actually this garden is famous for the flocks of peacocks. The garden was almost empty without people and the roses were off season. It was a rather lonely garden but very quiet and peaceful this time. The way back was Bagatelle→Point de Neuilly→Etoile→Trocadero. From Trocadero we walked all the way through to the restaurant named Au petit Sud Ouest, located at 46 Ave.De la Bourdonnai. Under such a beautiful weather, we walked through the crowd of tourists around the Tour d'Eiffel. It was after 2:00 when finally we found the restaurant. Masao's eyes are full of joy and satisfaction. We were very hungry after hard walking. The restaurant was comfortable with a good taste of interior decoration. Masao couldn't hide his joyful feeling for his success to find out this place. This place will be a new landmark for us. That's what he said with joy.)
(Raspail→Etoile→Porte maillot→Bagatelle by using subway and tram. Masao told me that we used to take our children here to let them play on Sundays. But I don't remember well, which disappointed him. There is a huge flower garden and trees aside. We entered this garden and enjoyed watching some couples of peacocks having a peaceful time. Actually this garden is famous for the flocks of peacocks. The garden was almost empty without people and the roses were off season. It was a rather lonely garden but very quiet and peaceful this time. The way back was Bagatelle→Point de Neuilly→Etoile→Trocadero. From Trocadero we walked all the way through to the restaurant named Au petit Sud Ouest, located at 46 Ave.De la Bourdonnai. Under such a beautiful weather, we walked through the crowd of tourists around the Tour d'Eiffel. It was after 2:00 when finally we found the restaurant. Masao's eyes are full of joy and satisfaction. We were very hungry after hard walking. The restaurant was comfortable with a good taste of interior decoration. Masao couldn't hide his joyful feeling for his success to find out this place. This place will be a new landmark for us. That's what he said with joy.)
念願のCassouletにありついて喜んだ筈 だが、いつしか大人しくなって行った夫 |
キールを注文し、躊躇なくCassouletをオーダー。 その前に
Salade verte と Salade tomatoを注文。どんどん追加してくれる
美味しいパンをトーストしてはサラミをAppetizerにしながら、オリーブ油をつけていただく。お腹がすいていたせいでこの上なく美味しい。やがてCassouletが出ると夫は「これだ!」と感嘆し、嬉々としていただく。私は初めての料理だったので興味を持って味を確かめる。赤っぽい豆の煮込み料理で、中に太い丸ごとのソーセージと骨付きのCanardが一緒に煮込まれている。煮込んであるからとろけるように柔らかい。しかし、コレステロールの塊とも言えそう。最初は見るからに小さい鍋と思っていたがとんでもない。この鍋は一人一個なのでかなりの量なのであり、だんだん負担になって行く。全部食べなくてはいけないという何故か義務感が二人にはあった。
( We ordered a glass of kile and salami as an appetizer. Then green salad and tomato salad. Cassoulet was our main dish which Masao ordered right away without hesitation. Some sliced bread were already served with a toaster aside. We were so hungry that we started toasting some bread in front of us and we dipped it in the olive oil for better taste. Actually it was very delicious. Our stomachs were half filled with the toasted bread. And the drink, kile, began to activate. When the dish cassoulet was brought in, Masao shouted for joy "This is it!" For me, it was for the first time and it's kind of challenging for me. Redish beens were for long hours cooked with duck leg meat and fat sausages. They must have been very well done. They are very soft. It seems this dish is a high cholestrol deposit. The casserole which looked so small at first has a big quantity and I was afraid we wouldn't never finish it. The more we ate, the bigger seemed the casserole. Even Masao who was so happy to taste in the beginning, was loosing his speed to eat with his eyes unstablly going around and with his unusual red face. Ovbiously he was full enough and seemed to stop. But we felt responsable for what we ordered. Anyhow we finished and left the restaurant. Then he ended up on a bench along the street for rest. He felt sick becuase of that kile and too much eating. Well, he should be satisfied with the cassoulet which he had such a strong desire to eat.)
昔パリに在勤した折、家族が子供たちの学校の関係で日本に帰ってしまったことがある。その時は夫は8か月単身赴任の身となった。その時、休みを利用して南仏でホームステイの経験をした。その時にお世話になった家で作ってくれたのがCassouletであり、忘れられない料理となったようである。今回パリに来て、あの時の感動をもう一度と思ったのであろう。昔を語りながら嬉々として食べ始まっていた筈の夫がいつの間にか大人しくなっていた。レストランを一人でテキパキきりもりしている奥さんに南仏で初めて食べたことや、Cassouletを郷土料理にしている町の名前が想い出せなくて聞いてみたり、最初はたのしそうだったのだが。顔が赤くなってきている。胃袋がアップアップ状態のよう。キールが効いたらしい。そして、空き腹で勢いよくいただいた大量のトーストが効いている。私の方は、大量ながら何とか問題なく食べ干した。でも、最後は正直too much!
(During our station in Paris a quarter century ago, Masao was alone for 8 months without his family who were back in Japan for their school. He dared to experience a home stay for his vacation in the south. There, his host family prepared the dish "cassoulet" which gave to Masao a strong impression and he loved it very much. Since then he has kept this dish in his mind. He must have wanted to experience the same excitment. He was so happy when he found a restaurant where this dish is available. When we were tasting this cassoulet, he was so happy that he couldn't resist talking to the madam about his fairst meeting with the cassoulet dish in the provance long time ago. As he ate, he felt full in his stomach before finishing it. Too much toast and kile worked aginst his intension. I also felt too much.)
( We ordered a glass of kile and salami as an appetizer. Then green salad and tomato salad. Cassoulet was our main dish which Masao ordered right away without hesitation. Some sliced bread were already served with a toaster aside. We were so hungry that we started toasting some bread in front of us and we dipped it in the olive oil for better taste. Actually it was very delicious. Our stomachs were half filled with the toasted bread. And the drink, kile, began to activate. When the dish cassoulet was brought in, Masao shouted for joy "This is it!" For me, it was for the first time and it's kind of challenging for me. Redish beens were for long hours cooked with duck leg meat and fat sausages. They must have been very well done. They are very soft. It seems this dish is a high cholestrol deposit. The casserole which looked so small at first has a big quantity and I was afraid we wouldn't never finish it. The more we ate, the bigger seemed the casserole. Even Masao who was so happy to taste in the beginning, was loosing his speed to eat with his eyes unstablly going around and with his unusual red face. Ovbiously he was full enough and seemed to stop. But we felt responsable for what we ordered. Anyhow we finished and left the restaurant. Then he ended up on a bench along the street for rest. He felt sick becuase of that kile and too much eating. Well, he should be satisfied with the cassoulet which he had such a strong desire to eat.)
昔パリに在勤した折、家族が子供たちの学校の関係で日本に帰ってしまったことがある。その時は夫は8か月単身赴任の身となった。その時、休みを利用して南仏でホームステイの経験をした。その時にお世話になった家で作ってくれたのがCassouletであり、忘れられない料理となったようである。今回パリに来て、あの時の感動をもう一度と思ったのであろう。昔を語りながら嬉々として食べ始まっていた筈の夫がいつの間にか大人しくなっていた。レストランを一人でテキパキきりもりしている奥さんに南仏で初めて食べたことや、Cassouletを郷土料理にしている町の名前が想い出せなくて聞いてみたり、最初はたのしそうだったのだが。顔が赤くなってきている。胃袋がアップアップ状態のよう。キールが効いたらしい。そして、空き腹で勢いよくいただいた大量のトーストが効いている。私の方は、大量ながら何とか問題なく食べ干した。でも、最後は正直too much!
(During our station in Paris a quarter century ago, Masao was alone for 8 months without his family who were back in Japan for their school. He dared to experience a home stay for his vacation in the south. There, his host family prepared the dish "cassoulet" which gave to Masao a strong impression and he loved it very much. Since then he has kept this dish in his mind. He must have wanted to experience the same excitment. He was so happy when he found a restaurant where this dish is available. When we were tasting this cassoulet, he was so happy that he couldn't resist talking to the madam about his fairst meeting with the cassoulet dish in the provance long time ago. As he ate, he felt full in his stomach before finishing it. Too much toast and kile worked aginst his intension. I also felt too much.)
最初の一口は美味しいと思った。でもコレステロールが効いた。そして少し、塩味が効きすぎていた。健康上大変なことになりそうな予感がした。アップアップした夫は外に出ると、気持ちが悪いと言いだし、ついに歩道にあるベンチで横になってしまった。とんだ顛末となった。小一時間で夫は正気に戻ったが、以後、Cassouletのことは言わなくなった。・・・しかし、実は、この旅行から帰って間もなく、インターネットでフランス料理を検索し、Cassouletのレシピを探し当てて、自分で作ってしまった。豆は大きな白い花豆を使い、あらゆる種類の野菜から出汁を取り、肉は鶏やら豚を、そしてフランクフルトソーセージを使って。鰹節も。3,4時間かけていたように思う。結果は上の上。極上であった。パリで食べたのより余程上品な味で、実に美味しく出来上がったのである。やるからにはとことんまで意地でもやるという根性が見事な花を咲かせた時であった。・・・この次、同じものができるだろうか?
(The first one bite was very tasty. But too much cholesterol badly worked. It was bit too salty. I was worried about our health. Complaining his stomach, Masao lay down on a bench for a while. After that he kept quiet and no more talk about cassoulet. However, after coming back to Japan, Masao researched the recipe for cassoulet on internet and he made it by himself. What he ate in Paris this time may not have been the one he looked for. His tenacious feeling for the cassoulet in his mind might have enforced him to cook by himself. He used Japanese white beans, many kinds of vegetable of which he extracted the delicate juice and port meat as well as chicken meat. Of course frankfurt sausage, dried bonito too. He cooked them for 3 to 4 hours. It was amazingly done. It turned to be very very delicious. More than successful. I was really impressed by his way of pursuing what he wants. Once he decideds to do something, he really does. He never gives up. One thing, I don't think he will make the same good one next time as he did this time.)
(The first one bite was very tasty. But too much cholesterol badly worked. It was bit too salty. I was worried about our health. Complaining his stomach, Masao lay down on a bench for a while. After that he kept quiet and no more talk about cassoulet. However, after coming back to Japan, Masao researched the recipe for cassoulet on internet and he made it by himself. What he ate in Paris this time may not have been the one he looked for. His tenacious feeling for the cassoulet in his mind might have enforced him to cook by himself. He used Japanese white beans, many kinds of vegetable of which he extracted the delicate juice and port meat as well as chicken meat. Of course frankfurt sausage, dried bonito too. He cooked them for 3 to 4 hours. It was amazingly done. It turned to be very very delicious. More than successful. I was really impressed by his way of pursuing what he wants. Once he decideds to do something, he really does. He never gives up. One thing, I don't think he will make the same good one next time as he did this time.)
ベンチで小休止してから、両替の必要性に気づき、2,3の銀行に行ったが、これはBanque postaleに行くのが正解。丁度ロダン美術館へ向かう途中、Ecole Militaire通りに大きな郵便局を探し当て、無事、ユーロに両替出来た。そして何度も行ったロダン美術館へ。途中のpromenadeもPlace des Invalidesを左側に沿って行くのだがこのルートも又格別である。今まではいつも車で出かけていたので、こうしてゆっくり歩きで目的地に向かうのも回りを観察出来て楽しい。
(After having a rest on a bech, we looked for a bank where we could exchange our money. We found out Banque postale was the best. It was along the Ecole militaire street on the way to Rodin museum. The promenade around Place des Invalides was good. )
(After having a rest on a bech, we looked for a bank where we could exchange our money. We found out Banque postale was the best. It was along the Ecole militaire street on the way to Rodin museum. The promenade around Place des Invalides was good. )
閉館後の庭で最高の角度を見つける。 考える人の前に浮かび上がった 赤いバラが印象的だった。(a shot from the best angle. The red rose in the center up in the air is very impressive.) |
(Until 6 o'clock, closing time, we spent 2 hours which was enough to look around in the museum. I like the best these white marble sculptures. Thses soft expressions in shade off methode on the marble attract my heart. )
情緒があり、カレー市民やバルザック像、地獄の門などのブロンズ像と又異なる。 右の大理石の彫刻には手の柔らかい、いかにも優しそうな血の通った生きた手の表情がある。これらの作品はむしろ無造作に展示されている感があり、思わず触りたくなる。
( They have emotion. This marble sculpture in the photo above makes me feel the elegance of the hands with warm blood open to us. These sculptures are displayed with ease, simple way. I prefer these ones to the big bronze sculptures displyed outside such as Balzac, Hell Gate.)
アダムとイブの大理石像 Adam and Eve |
この美術館には、ロダン自身の作品は勿論、パートナーとなった
カミーユのロダン像なども見ごたえがある。又、ロダンの収集した
ものも展示されている。建物としての美術館はロダンが死後、作品を国に寄贈することを条件にロダンが暮らした所で、18世紀建築の邸宅として見るのも面白い。後で見るルーブルもそうであるが、いくら写真を撮ってもフラッシュさえ使わなければOKである。
日本ではどうだったっけ?とふと思ってみる。会場を監視する人の目はかなり寛容である。(居ない場合もある)
(In this museum are also desplayed the works by Camille who had been Rodin's everlasting partner such as Rodin's portrait she herself engraved. The building is the place where Rodin lived under the condition that all the works by Rodin would be donated to the state of France after his death. It is one of the mansions built in 18th century. In shis museum as well as in Louvre which we visited later, we don't refrain from photo taking but without flushing.)
8時からのコンサートにはまだ1時間半はある。昼間のジーンズ姿は好ましくないので、急いで一度宿に帰った。メトロで30分。夕食を取るには昼間のCassouletがまだアップアップしていて早すぎる。そのまま着替えて又メトロでEtoileまで行く。Ave.Hocheを下り、St.Honoreで左折するとSalle pleyelがある。丁度10分前に到着。
(We still had more than one and half an hour before 8:00 when the concert would start. We decided to go back home once to change our clothes from jeans to proper attire adequate to the concert. No need to have dinner, since our stomachs were still occupied with that cassoulet. We took subway to go back and forth. We found ourselves in the salle playel concert hall just 10 minutes before 8:00.)
今回のプログラムは昨日と今日の二回が今シーズンのパリ・オーケストラのオープニングということでロマン派の作曲家をパリ・オーケストラの指揮者Paavo Jarvi氏が選んで指揮した。今晩はベルリオーズのLe Corsaire, ouverture, op 21 /ショパンのConcerto pour piano No 2 /ベートーベンのSymphonie No 5。ベルリオーズは出だしが意表をつく。速いメロディーとそれを奏でるテクニックを持つパリ・オーケストラの実力に圧倒された。オーケストラのマスターバイオリニストは日本人?他にも、日本人演奏者が居た。グルジア人のKhatia Buniatishviliはまだ24歳という若手ピアニスト。彼女のなめらかで、且つエネルギッシュな演奏は若さが溢れている。容姿にも華がある。昨日はポーランド人の若手、というよりわずか16歳というJan Lisieckiが演奏したようだが、この若手ピアニストを指揮者が抜擢したということである。ショパンの世界にひたり、ベートーベンの世界にひたり(No5は一寸重すぎる!やっぱりモーツアルトがいいと夫のコメントがあった)、終わりに、アンコールの拍手が止まない中、彼女はリストの愛の夢を弾いてくれた。もう自分がその世界に浸って心の赴くままというか、うっとり聴かされた。昔、長女がよく練習して弾いていたことを想い出しながら。
(The opening of the season by Pari Orchestre started yesterday but today is also another day for that. The program was planned by the conductor, Mr. Paavo Jarvi. He chose some pieces by three composers in the romantic school. They are Le Corsaire, ouverture,op21 by Berlioz, Concerto pour piano No2 and Simphonie No5 by Beethoven. We were very much impressed by the quick and strong pitch of Le Corsaire which I listened for the first time. The delicate and speedy melody performed by the Paris Orchestre with such a high technique just overwelmed us. We notice a few Japanese violinists in there. The pianist was Khatia, a young Georgia, who performed very well. Her technique produced an accurate and delicate air, full of young spirit. She was attractive as well. Yesterday's pianist was 16 years old Polish boy, Jan Lisiecki, who seemed also to overwelme the audience. they were picked up the conductor. We were in the world of Shopin and Beethoven. (According to Masao, these are bit heavy. He preferes Mozart. ) The pianiso received a big applause which induced her to play another piece "Love dream" by Listz, which reminded me of Tomoko who used to play this piece a lot in front of our dinner guests when we were still on duty outside Japan. )
(The opening of the season by Pari Orchestre started yesterday but today is also another day for that. The program was planned by the conductor, Mr. Paavo Jarvi. He chose some pieces by three composers in the romantic school. They are Le Corsaire, ouverture,op21 by Berlioz, Concerto pour piano No2 and Simphonie No5 by Beethoven. We were very much impressed by the quick and strong pitch of Le Corsaire which I listened for the first time. The delicate and speedy melody performed by the Paris Orchestre with such a high technique just overwelmed us. We notice a few Japanese violinists in there. The pianist was Khatia, a young Georgia, who performed very well. Her technique produced an accurate and delicate air, full of young spirit. She was attractive as well. Yesterday's pianist was 16 years old Polish boy, Jan Lisiecki, who seemed also to overwelme the audience. they were picked up the conductor. We were in the world of Shopin and Beethoven. (According to Masao, these are bit heavy. He preferes Mozart. ) The pianiso received a big applause which induced her to play another piece "Love dream" by Listz, which reminded me of Tomoko who used to play this piece a lot in front of our dinner guests when we were still on duty outside Japan. )
半年前にはニューヨークのリンカーンセンターでロメオとジュリエットを鑑賞した。あの時は韓国人の歌姫のパフォーマンスに聴きほれ、見惚れた。今やアジア人も世界を舞台に大活躍である。ベルリンの常任指揮者になった佐渡氏もパリ・オーケストラを指揮する筈である。音楽もスポーツも壁が無くて世界を舞台に活躍出来るのは本当に素晴らしい。こんなことを思いながら会場を後にした。外に出てみると、St.Honoreの通りはまだ明るい。Brasserieに寄ってテイクアウトのピザを作って貰った。これは先にPorte d'Auteuilで食べたのとは大違い。実に美味しかった。
( Half a year ago, we observed "Romeo et Juliette" in Lincoln center in NYC. A Korean primadonna in that opera impressed us a lot at that time. Now we are in the time when many Asians are active and show up on the international stages. Mr, Sado, Japanese conductor for Berlin Orchestre, is to conduct Pari Orchestre some time. It is wonderful for sports and music players to be able to come up to show their ability anytime anywhere. With that feeling we went out of the hall. On the way we got a take-away pizza at a brasserie which was very tasty unlike the one we tried at Porte d'Auteuil.)
( Half a year ago, we observed "Romeo et Juliette" in Lincoln center in NYC. A Korean primadonna in that opera impressed us a lot at that time. Now we are in the time when many Asians are active and show up on the international stages. Mr, Sado, Japanese conductor for Berlin Orchestre, is to conduct Pari Orchestre some time. It is wonderful for sports and music players to be able to come up to show their ability anytime anywhere. With that feeling we went out of the hall. On the way we got a take-away pizza at a brasserie which was very tasty unlike the one we tried at Porte d'Auteuil.)
9月16日(金)今日はランチタイムを茂子さんと一緒に過ごすことになっている。その前に、夫はアポの為、9時に出ていき、私は片付け、整理、洗濯、メモ取りなどで(明後日には帰国の途につくことを考えながら) 午前中は在宅。12時にEtoileで茂子さんと待ち合わせていたので、11時半前に家を出た。外は曇り空。傘は持っているのに、肝心の時に持たずで後悔。Etoile についたら少し雨模様となっていた。殆ど同時に彼女も到着。夫が来るまで、バス停のベンチで待つことに。おしゃべりが弾む。パリにもう1か月は、いや、もっと長く居る感じがする。すっかり中に溶け込んだというのか、後ろを見ないで今にどっぷり浸かっているというのか、前を見ないで向う見ずに歩いているというのか。それはどうであれ、茂子さんのおかげで、今回のパリ滞在がこんなにComfortableでMeaningfulなものになっのだから彼女に感謝せざるを得ない。少し遅れて合流した夫も同じ気持ちであった。
(Sept.16(Fri) We are to have lunch together with Shigeko-san today. Masao had one more engagement in the morning. I stayed at home to clean the studio to prepare for return trip. Therefore we are to meet each other at noon at Etoile. It was cloudy. When I arrived at Etoile, it was drizzling, then Shegeko-san also showed up. we sit at bus stop to wait for Masao. We just talked to each other. I felt like I have been in Paris for one monthe or so. That much I have been involved in the life in Paris. Thanks to her kindness, our stay in Paris turned to be so comfortable and meaningful. I really appreciate her generosity and kindness. Masao came up to join us half an hour later.)
(Sept.16(Fri) We are to have lunch together with Shigeko-san today. Masao had one more engagement in the morning. I stayed at home to clean the studio to prepare for return trip. Therefore we are to meet each other at noon at Etoile. It was cloudy. When I arrived at Etoile, it was drizzling, then Shegeko-san also showed up. we sit at bus stop to wait for Masao. We just talked to each other. I felt like I have been in Paris for one monthe or so. That much I have been involved in the life in Paris. Thanks to her kindness, our stay in Paris turned to be so comfortable and meaningful. I really appreciate her generosity and kindness. Masao came up to join us half an hour later.)
再びAve.HocheをNo10の前を通りながら下がり、St.Honoreよりもう一つ下の通りを左折してレストランLe Mareeへ。12時半という時間は昼食にはまだ早いのだろう、お客は私達だけであった。かえって一番好きな席を取ることが出来た。ゆったりした気持ちで会話を楽しみながらメニューを眺める。時間をかけて注文した頃にやっと人が入り始めた。グッドタイミングであった。
(We waled down along Ave.Hoche, turned to the left and one more left turn led us to the restaurant Le Maree. According to the French standard, the time 12:30 was early for lunch. It is after 1:00 when it gets busy. Therefore it was good for us to sit first and take our time to order. When our choice was ready, more people came in one after another. )
茂子さんには今年五月に東京でお会いして以来なので久しぶりという感じではない。あの時と同じように、相変わらず長身の姿勢は良く、黒のスカート、ハイヒール、レンガ色のスプリングコートが良くお似合いであった。夫々異なるチョイスをして会話は続く。お孫さんのセバスチャンのお世話と看病で心身ともに困難なタイミングである中を私達と一時を過ごす為に郊外から出て下さった次第。いろいろな話が出来た。夫が相変わらずいろいろな話をし始める。パリはヨーロッパのNY的立ち位置にある。人種の坩堝となっている。ただ、コミュニティーの強さという点ではNYの方が勝っていること、イスラムのこと、パリの世相、現状などなど。茂子さんもそれを裏付ける話をして下さる。パリにきていろいろな方とインタビューしていろいろ新しい情報を得ているから話も興味深い。合い間に私たちのここまでのパリ見聞の行状や感想も入れ、私のアルツハイマー序曲も奏でながらのホスピタリティーに、彼女はお孫さんのつらさのことを忘れ、心が癒されたと後で言った下さった。そうであれば嬉しい。又、近く今度は日本で再会出来ることを願って3時過ぎに別れた。
(Back in May this year, I met Shigeko-san in Tokyo. She looked straight in good shape as used to. This time she was in an orange coat and in a black skirt with a pair of high heels on. She came out from the western suburb to meet us inspite of her difficult time in caring her grand son who has been suffering from the leukemia. He is only 3 years old. We talked a lot about our experiences this time in Paris. We exchanged our views and impressions on French culture. Masao pointed out that Paris looks like NY in Europe having many kinds of races. The quality of French culture has been changing. Of course we told her about our interview with two big Islamic people. She agrees with our comments that the Islamic community in Paris has become more visual. She thanked us for our hospitality with lots of laugh and talks on many kinds of subjects. She said her mind was away from her worry about her grandson's disease for a few hours, which was good. We parted from her after 3 o'clock hoping that we would see each other soon.)
今度はお土産算段でギャラリー・ラファイエットへ。観光客でごった返している。店の前の歩道に古いピアノを引っ張り出してがんがん演奏する人もいれば、例のNous avons faim!と書いた紙を前に置いて頭を下げて座り込んでいる子供連れの両親、お土産物を一杯吊り下げ、並べたキオスク。人も音もごった返しているが賑やかである。そのデパートに入ると、観光客が一杯買い物袋を提げて右往左往している。そんな中で、中国人の団体も目立つ。疲れて、ロビーにお尻から座っている人も。さまざまである。デパートの向かい側にはちゃんと両替場所もある。自国の通貨さえ持っていれば買い物は出来るようになっているのだ。
(After the lunch, we went to the downtown for souvenir shopping. Many tourists filled up the street in front of the department, Gallery Lafayette. The street was all mixed up with venders of many kinds of souvenirs, some music performers and the poor sittng on the street with a message "Nouw avons faim!"in front. A man playing the piano which looked century old was impressive. He looked so confident and satisfied with his performance. The department was full of tourists watching around with many shopping bags. A group of Chinese was very cheerful and noisy. Some of them were so tired that they couldn't help sitting on the floor. There was a big exchange office across the street. I found out that as long as we have our own currency, we can exchange it without any complicated procedure.)
昼間の美味しいフランス料理(私は一寸シーズンには早めのhuitreとソースの美味しい魚料理を、茂子さんは確か鮭の料理、夫はお肉料理)を味わったばかりなので、夜は外食はせず、ひたすら暗くなったパリの夜景を見ながら、帰路についた。帰宅したのが10時過ぎ。それから何となく残り物で夕食作り。冷蔵庫は空っぽにしなくてはという思いから買い出しはやっていない。
(At the lunch with Shigeko-san, I had fresh oysters while she had a big salmon dish and my husband had veal meat. As those big taste still remains in our stomach, we returned home in a good mood full of beautiful night view of Paris. It was after 10 o'clock when we got home. Then I made a small dish using all the materials left in the refrigerator. )
9月17日(土)夫はアポが全部終わってホッとしたのか外出する気は無さそうだったので、私は一人で最後にもう一度行き残した場所に向かった。行き先はSaint German Des Pres。まず教会の中に入り、見学。小さな教会だが、ここの鐘楼はパリで最古のもので11世紀初期に作られたそうだ。ロマネスク様式の建物で質素である。この教会を中心に活気あふれる街が栄えた。ミッシェル通りを挟んで、西側が例のサルトルやボーボワールの実存主義者達が議論に明け暮れた界隈であり、東側がソルボンヌ大学を中心にカルチエラタンが開ける学生の街。今回、ソルボンヌ大学の方向に行くことにし、途中、チュイルリー公園の中を横切って散策。ここは東京なら皇居前みたいな感じで、朝のジョギングが盛大に行われている。公園のフェンスづたいに一周している風である。さっそうと走る人は余りいない。それぞれのペースで、ドタドタと走っている感じである。公園の中はベゴニアとか、バラの花壇が清楚に管理されている。正面入口には、年に一回しか公開されないらしい文化遺産を見ようと長蛇の列が作られていた。いづこも同じである。
(Sept.17(Sat) Masao wanted to stay at studio with no more appointments left. I decided to go out to head for some places I planned to visit this time. My destination was Saint German Des Pres. I entered the church for the first time as a tourist. It is a very small church but its name is big. It has the oldest chapel built in the beginning of 11th century. The Romanesqu architecture gives a humble impression. This church inspired the surrounding to establish an active town. On the west side of the avenue of Michelle is the area where Sartre, Beauvoir and their friends used to assemble to discuss, while the east side of the avenue has been developed as a town for students with Sorbonne as its center. I kept walking until I reached to the university passing through the parc of Tuilerie. This area seems like the front park of the Imperial palace in Tokyo. Many citizens were jogging along the fence all around. They do jogging in their own style. The park is well taken care with lots of flowers such as roses and begonias. In front of the main gate of the park, there was a long queue for the opening of the world heritage for the public which occures once a year.This is the phenomenon we observe everywhere.)
昔の記憶が呼び戻せないまま、やっとたどり着いたソルボンヌの校舎はつかみどころがない。あちこち歩き回ったが私が2セメスター通った校舎はどこにあったか思い出せない。情けない話である。どこかに仕舞い込んである修了証書を見ればアドレスが書いてある筈である。何せCours de Civilisation Francaise de la Sorbonneという講座は6か所ぐらいでやっているのだから。それにしても記憶とは恐ろしいものである。覚えていること、記憶から遠ざかったこと、どこに区切りがあるのか。突然思い出してくることもある。生憎、土曜日であったので事務局はお休みであった。
(I tried to remember the university building I used to commute for two semesters back in 1987 but in vain. It's depressing. The certificate I received from the university should be kept somewhere in the apartment in Tama. If I could find it, the address of the authority could be found out. In those days, the course of Civilisation Francaise de la Sorbonne was conducted in 6 different buildings. I was very depressed with my poor memory. Unfortunately it was Saturday and the office was closed. There was nobody who could help me.)
一度昼前に帰宅。今度は夫と最後の外出となる。最後の時間はルーブルで。ここも何度か来ているが、短い時間でお客様を案内する程度であった。今回は夫の定める焦点に合わせて巡回。
(Once I returned home. Then in the afternoon I went out again with my husband for the last walk in Paris. We went to the Louvre. I have been there many times before but each time we only guided our house guests for a few hours. This time I just followed Masao who had a target.)
古代オリエント、ギリシャ・ローマの美術品、彫刻を主にこんなにゆっくり時間をかけて見たのは初めてである。お目当てを絞って見るのが賢明である。メソポタミア文明の中でハムラビ法典という現代でも通用する法典が石に刻まれている。凄いものである。訳がつけられているが、楔文字をどうやって解明出来たのかも不思議としか言えない。理解を超えた人間の偉業がしっかり保存されている。ミロのヴィーナスのバランスの取れた美しさから、ローマ時代のアントニオ皇帝の巻物を持った彫刻、迫力のある大理石彫刻の数々。フィレンツェ・ルネッサンス時代のミケランジェロの作品などなど。モナリザやナポレオン戴冠式の大作も改めて見る。
(I have never spent such a long time to see carefully all those Greek, Roman sculptures. It's an effective way to focus on the items in particular. We found the display of Hummrabi Code which was made in the era of Mesopotamian civilisation. It's incredible to translate cuneiform into French or English. The superwork by human beings is well kept tight. We enjoyed seeing all those statues such as Venus of Milo, well balanced beautiful sculpture, Antonio, Emperor in Roman era,with a roll of document in arm, and many big and powerful marble sculptures. Works by Michelangelo in the era of Florens Renaissance were there in front of us. We didn't miss Monalisa and that huge painting entitled Enthronement of Napoleon.)
美術館の中を歩くのは結構疲れる。それでも出来るだけ沢山みようとするのは欲張り以外の何物でもない。焦点を定めて、少しをじっくりみること。そして何度もみることであろう。
知識が無くては深く理解出来ない。理解できると面白さが深まる。人生は面白いことが沢山ある筈で、それを見出せるかどうかはその人の蓄積された知識と経験にかかっていると思うという夫の意見は心に響く。勉強の積み重ねがあってこそ面白いことが発見出来るということであろう。
(Walking and standing in the museum make us tired. But our desire to see as many objects as possible comes from nothing but our avarice. In order to appreciate art works, it should be focused on something in partcular, then taking a time we carefully see those. And we should repeat it. Without some knowledge we cannot uderstand. More understanding makes us feel more interested in what our ancesters had done. There should exist many interesting things in the life which could be better understood with more knowledge and experiences. That's what Masao is used to say, which persuades me this time. The more we study, the deeper we know the meaning and we feel more interested in knowing.)
9月18日(日)いよいよパリを離れる日となる。帰路もフライトは別々であるが、30分くらいの違いなので、一緒に飛行場へ。5時に起きて、荷物を作り、部屋を片付け、ゴミも地下のコンテイナーに運び入れてすべてOK。鍵はコンシエルジュのボックスに最後に入れておけば良いとの事。
7時半にモンパルナスのバス停に辿りついたら丁度シャルル・ド・ゴール行きが出発するところであった。予定通りに飛行場での時間を有効に使い、途中からそれぞれのターミナルに。チェックインは自分で。夫はSK。私はAF。日本時間の朝9時~10時に成田にどちらも到着する筈である。ここで一人旅というのもスリルがあって面白い。 夫はコペンハーゲン経由、私はアムステルダム、スキポール空港経由。パリでは出国審査をしないので、この経由地で行う。飛行場で最後の€を使い
果たしてすべて終了。いろいろ振り返りながらも、もう、帰ってからのことに思いが向く。朝成田に着くので、今昼の真っ最中でも、しっかり寝ることとする。
(Sept 18(Sun) It's finally the day we have to leave for Japan. Our flight are different, but we will arrive at Narita about the same time. My husband will transit at Copenhagen and I will at Amsteredome where I will use up my € money. On the flight I had a review of my stay in Paris and got to be ready to start again my life in Nikko but with more knowledge and refreshed feeling. As arrival time at Narita will be in the morning, I need to sleep well on board. Good night!)
,
二週間余り経過してやっとパリ旅行のメモ書きが出来た。まだ他にメモすべきこともあるが、ここまでやっておけば多分忘れないであろう。時々読み返して記憶が薄れないよう、何よりも、感動を忘れないようにしたい。留守の間、ミーちゃんと金魚のお世話をして下さった正子さん、ありがとう。
(Two weeks after we came back home, I got finally finished with my work on blog. There are more to write down but this blog would be enough to keep my memory. I will sometimes read it so as not to forget my special and precious experiences. Above all, I will not forget my excitement and impression I got during my trip this time. First of all I would like to thank Masako-san for her kind taking care of Mi-chan, our dear old cat and two small fish.)
Le Mareeレストランでご一緒に昼食 |
(We waled down along Ave.Hoche, turned to the left and one more left turn led us to the restaurant Le Maree. According to the French standard, the time 12:30 was early for lunch. It is after 1:00 when it gets busy. Therefore it was good for us to sit first and take our time to order. When our choice was ready, more people came in one after another. )
茂子さんには今年五月に東京でお会いして以来なので久しぶりという感じではない。あの時と同じように、相変わらず長身の姿勢は良く、黒のスカート、ハイヒール、レンガ色のスプリングコートが良くお似合いであった。夫々異なるチョイスをして会話は続く。お孫さんのセバスチャンのお世話と看病で心身ともに困難なタイミングである中を私達と一時を過ごす為に郊外から出て下さった次第。いろいろな話が出来た。夫が相変わらずいろいろな話をし始める。パリはヨーロッパのNY的立ち位置にある。人種の坩堝となっている。ただ、コミュニティーの強さという点ではNYの方が勝っていること、イスラムのこと、パリの世相、現状などなど。茂子さんもそれを裏付ける話をして下さる。パリにきていろいろな方とインタビューしていろいろ新しい情報を得ているから話も興味深い。合い間に私たちのここまでのパリ見聞の行状や感想も入れ、私のアルツハイマー序曲も奏でながらのホスピタリティーに、彼女はお孫さんのつらさのことを忘れ、心が癒されたと後で言った下さった。そうであれば嬉しい。又、近く今度は日本で再会出来ることを願って3時過ぎに別れた。
(Back in May this year, I met Shigeko-san in Tokyo. She looked straight in good shape as used to. This time she was in an orange coat and in a black skirt with a pair of high heels on. She came out from the western suburb to meet us inspite of her difficult time in caring her grand son who has been suffering from the leukemia. He is only 3 years old. We talked a lot about our experiences this time in Paris. We exchanged our views and impressions on French culture. Masao pointed out that Paris looks like NY in Europe having many kinds of races. The quality of French culture has been changing. Of course we told her about our interview with two big Islamic people. She agrees with our comments that the Islamic community in Paris has become more visual. She thanked us for our hospitality with lots of laugh and talks on many kinds of subjects. She said her mind was away from her worry about her grandson's disease for a few hours, which was good. We parted from her after 3 o'clock hoping that we would see each other soon.)
今度はお土産算段でギャラリー・ラファイエットへ。観光客でごった返している。店の前の歩道に古いピアノを引っ張り出してがんがん演奏する人もいれば、例のNous avons faim!と書いた紙を前に置いて頭を下げて座り込んでいる子供連れの両親、お土産物を一杯吊り下げ、並べたキオスク。人も音もごった返しているが賑やかである。そのデパートに入ると、観光客が一杯買い物袋を提げて右往左往している。そんな中で、中国人の団体も目立つ。疲れて、ロビーにお尻から座っている人も。さまざまである。デパートの向かい側にはちゃんと両替場所もある。自国の通貨さえ持っていれば買い物は出来るようになっているのだ。
(After the lunch, we went to the downtown for souvenir shopping. Many tourists filled up the street in front of the department, Gallery Lafayette. The street was all mixed up with venders of many kinds of souvenirs, some music performers and the poor sittng on the street with a message "Nouw avons faim!"in front. A man playing the piano which looked century old was impressive. He looked so confident and satisfied with his performance. The department was full of tourists watching around with many shopping bags. A group of Chinese was very cheerful and noisy. Some of them were so tired that they couldn't help sitting on the floor. There was a big exchange office across the street. I found out that as long as we have our own currency, we can exchange it without any complicated procedure.)
とりあえず、目的は果たして、今度はノートルダム寺院へ。ここも賑わっている。唐草模様の門をもう一度良く見る。ゴシック建築の気骨のある建物を後ろに、パントマイムの女性(オジサン?)が天使の恰好で彫刻になりきってじっと立っている。微動だにしないその根性に感心して前に置いてある缶に小銭を入れたところ、急に動いてやさしく私を抱こうとしたのでびっくり。すかさずシャッターが下りた(右の写真)。トロカデロの広場にもパントマイムがいた。紳士が鞄を側に置いて石に座り、何やら考え込むポーズであった。どちらも洋服から顔から手まで、全身シルバー色でかためていた。モデル料を出してスケッチしてもいい感じである。とにかく、皆、自由な発想で楽しんでいる空気がある。
(We were able to find what we wanted there anyway. We walked to the Notre Dame which also invited many trourists.Masao wanted to observe carefully the wooden gate with arabesque pattern on it. With the strong backbone Gothic architecture of the church in the back, a man(or woman) was standing still on a stool in all white. I got interested in approaching neaby to see if it was a man or a woman or a statue. There was a small can in front for coins. I threw in some into it without a second thought. Then the pantomimist suddenly moved and opened his arms to hug me. His movement was very soft and gentle. Masao noticed this happening and he took a photo of us(see the photo above). This reminded me of our visit to Trocadero where a man was sitting still on a stone. He was wearing business suit in all white from the top of the head to the feet. His pose was like Rodin's thinker. Everybody seemed to enjoy his own idea and life style here in Paris.)
(We were able to find what we wanted there anyway. We walked to the Notre Dame which also invited many trourists.Masao wanted to observe carefully the wooden gate with arabesque pattern on it. With the strong backbone Gothic architecture of the church in the back, a man(or woman) was standing still on a stool in all white. I got interested in approaching neaby to see if it was a man or a woman or a statue. There was a small can in front for coins. I threw in some into it without a second thought. Then the pantomimist suddenly moved and opened his arms to hug me. His movement was very soft and gentle. Masao noticed this happening and he took a photo of us(see the photo above). This reminded me of our visit to Trocadero where a man was sitting still on a stone. He was wearing business suit in all white from the top of the head to the feet. His pose was like Rodin's thinker. Everybody seemed to enjoy his own idea and life style here in Paris.)
シテ島からサン・ルイ島へは橋で繋がっている。女優Kさんの居住地である。小さな島だがパリ発祥の地である。17~18世紀の貴族の館が残る高級住宅地だそうだが、女優Kさんのお住まいも築370年だそうで一部が文化財指定になっているとのこと。だが、メイン通りを歩く限り、かわいい店が並んでいて、住宅地という感じがしない。ギャラリーもある。例の美味しいアイスクリームのお店、Berthillonの前を通ったのでピスタチオのコーンアイスを買った。8時の閉店時にぶつかっておまけで中に入れてくれた。一個5€。外に出るともう真っ暗になっていた。
(Cite Island is connected with Sait Luis Islans by a short bridge. Mme K's mansion is located in this island, small and this is the cradle of the history of Paris. The high class mansions built in the 17th and 18th century are still kept and people live in them. Mme K's mansion is one of those and it was built 370 years ago. But these mansions were out of our sight since it was already dark out and we only walked down to enjoy window shopping along the main street. The shops all looked small and lovely. On the way we found the well known icecream shop called Berthillon which allowed us to step in just before the closing time, 20 o'clock. One icecream cost 5€. )
(Cite Island is connected with Sait Luis Islans by a short bridge. Mme K's mansion is located in this island, small and this is the cradle of the history of Paris. The high class mansions built in the 17th and 18th century are still kept and people live in them. Mme K's mansion is one of those and it was built 370 years ago. But these mansions were out of our sight since it was already dark out and we only walked down to enjoy window shopping along the main street. The shops all looked small and lovely. On the way we found the well known icecream shop called Berthillon which allowed us to step in just before the closing time, 20 o'clock. One icecream cost 5€. )
昼間の美味しいフランス料理(私は一寸シーズンには早めのhuitreとソースの美味しい魚料理を、茂子さんは確か鮭の料理、夫はお肉料理)を味わったばかりなので、夜は外食はせず、ひたすら暗くなったパリの夜景を見ながら、帰路についた。帰宅したのが10時過ぎ。それから何となく残り物で夕食作り。冷蔵庫は空っぽにしなくてはという思いから買い出しはやっていない。
(At the lunch with Shigeko-san, I had fresh oysters while she had a big salmon dish and my husband had veal meat. As those big taste still remains in our stomach, we returned home in a good mood full of beautiful night view of Paris. It was after 10 o'clock when we got home. Then I made a small dish using all the materials left in the refrigerator. )
9月17日(土)夫はアポが全部終わってホッとしたのか外出する気は無さそうだったので、私は一人で最後にもう一度行き残した場所に向かった。行き先はSaint German Des Pres。まず教会の中に入り、見学。小さな教会だが、ここの鐘楼はパリで最古のもので11世紀初期に作られたそうだ。ロマネスク様式の建物で質素である。この教会を中心に活気あふれる街が栄えた。ミッシェル通りを挟んで、西側が例のサルトルやボーボワールの実存主義者達が議論に明け暮れた界隈であり、東側がソルボンヌ大学を中心にカルチエラタンが開ける学生の街。今回、ソルボンヌ大学の方向に行くことにし、途中、チュイルリー公園の中を横切って散策。ここは東京なら皇居前みたいな感じで、朝のジョギングが盛大に行われている。公園のフェンスづたいに一周している風である。さっそうと走る人は余りいない。それぞれのペースで、ドタドタと走っている感じである。公園の中はベゴニアとか、バラの花壇が清楚に管理されている。正面入口には、年に一回しか公開されないらしい文化遺産を見ようと長蛇の列が作られていた。いづこも同じである。
(Sept.17(Sat) Masao wanted to stay at studio with no more appointments left. I decided to go out to head for some places I planned to visit this time. My destination was Saint German Des Pres. I entered the church for the first time as a tourist. It is a very small church but its name is big. It has the oldest chapel built in the beginning of 11th century. The Romanesqu architecture gives a humble impression. This church inspired the surrounding to establish an active town. On the west side of the avenue of Michelle is the area where Sartre, Beauvoir and their friends used to assemble to discuss, while the east side of the avenue has been developed as a town for students with Sorbonne as its center. I kept walking until I reached to the university passing through the parc of Tuilerie. This area seems like the front park of the Imperial palace in Tokyo. Many citizens were jogging along the fence all around. They do jogging in their own style. The park is well taken care with lots of flowers such as roses and begonias. In front of the main gate of the park, there was a long queue for the opening of the world heritage for the public which occures once a year.This is the phenomenon we observe everywhere.)
昔の記憶が呼び戻せないまま、やっとたどり着いたソルボンヌの校舎はつかみどころがない。あちこち歩き回ったが私が2セメスター通った校舎はどこにあったか思い出せない。情けない話である。どこかに仕舞い込んである修了証書を見ればアドレスが書いてある筈である。何せCours de Civilisation Francaise de la Sorbonneという講座は6か所ぐらいでやっているのだから。それにしても記憶とは恐ろしいものである。覚えていること、記憶から遠ざかったこと、どこに区切りがあるのか。突然思い出してくることもある。生憎、土曜日であったので事務局はお休みであった。
(I tried to remember the university building I used to commute for two semesters back in 1987 but in vain. It's depressing. The certificate I received from the university should be kept somewhere in the apartment in Tama. If I could find it, the address of the authority could be found out. In those days, the course of Civilisation Francaise de la Sorbonne was conducted in 6 different buildings. I was very depressed with my poor memory. Unfortunately it was Saturday and the office was closed. There was nobody who could help me.)
一度昼前に帰宅。今度は夫と最後の外出となる。最後の時間はルーブルで。ここも何度か来ているが、短い時間でお客様を案内する程度であった。今回は夫の定める焦点に合わせて巡回。
(Once I returned home. Then in the afternoon I went out again with my husband for the last walk in Paris. We went to the Louvre. I have been there many times before but each time we only guided our house guests for a few hours. This time I just followed Masao who had a target.)
古代オリエント、ギリシャ・ローマの美術品、彫刻を主にこんなにゆっくり時間をかけて見たのは初めてである。お目当てを絞って見るのが賢明である。メソポタミア文明の中でハムラビ法典という現代でも通用する法典が石に刻まれている。凄いものである。訳がつけられているが、楔文字をどうやって解明出来たのかも不思議としか言えない。理解を超えた人間の偉業がしっかり保存されている。ミロのヴィーナスのバランスの取れた美しさから、ローマ時代のアントニオ皇帝の巻物を持った彫刻、迫力のある大理石彫刻の数々。フィレンツェ・ルネッサンス時代のミケランジェロの作品などなど。モナリザやナポレオン戴冠式の大作も改めて見る。
(I have never spent such a long time to see carefully all those Greek, Roman sculptures. It's an effective way to focus on the items in particular. We found the display of Hummrabi Code which was made in the era of Mesopotamian civilisation. It's incredible to translate cuneiform into French or English. The superwork by human beings is well kept tight. We enjoyed seeing all those statues such as Venus of Milo, well balanced beautiful sculpture, Antonio, Emperor in Roman era,with a roll of document in arm, and many big and powerful marble sculptures. Works by Michelangelo in the era of Florens Renaissance were there in front of us. We didn't miss Monalisa and that huge painting entitled Enthronement of Napoleon.)
美術館の中を歩くのは結構疲れる。それでも出来るだけ沢山みようとするのは欲張り以外の何物でもない。焦点を定めて、少しをじっくりみること。そして何度もみることであろう。
知識が無くては深く理解出来ない。理解できると面白さが深まる。人生は面白いことが沢山ある筈で、それを見出せるかどうかはその人の蓄積された知識と経験にかかっていると思うという夫の意見は心に響く。勉強の積み重ねがあってこそ面白いことが発見出来るということであろう。
(Walking and standing in the museum make us tired. But our desire to see as many objects as possible comes from nothing but our avarice. In order to appreciate art works, it should be focused on something in partcular, then taking a time we carefully see those. And we should repeat it. Without some knowledge we cannot uderstand. More understanding makes us feel more interested in what our ancesters had done. There should exist many interesting things in the life which could be better understood with more knowledge and experiences. That's what Masao is used to say, which persuades me this time. The more we study, the deeper we know the meaning and we feel more interested in knowing.)
9月18日(日)いよいよパリを離れる日となる。帰路もフライトは別々であるが、30分くらいの違いなので、一緒に飛行場へ。5時に起きて、荷物を作り、部屋を片付け、ゴミも地下のコンテイナーに運び入れてすべてOK。鍵はコンシエルジュのボックスに最後に入れておけば良いとの事。
7時半にモンパルナスのバス停に辿りついたら丁度シャルル・ド・ゴール行きが出発するところであった。予定通りに飛行場での時間を有効に使い、途中からそれぞれのターミナルに。チェックインは自分で。夫はSK。私はAF。日本時間の朝9時~10時に成田にどちらも到着する筈である。ここで一人旅というのもスリルがあって面白い。 夫はコペンハーゲン経由、私はアムステルダム、スキポール空港経由。パリでは出国審査をしないので、この経由地で行う。飛行場で最後の€を使い
果たしてすべて終了。いろいろ振り返りながらも、もう、帰ってからのことに思いが向く。朝成田に着くので、今昼の真っ最中でも、しっかり寝ることとする。
(Sept 18(Sun) It's finally the day we have to leave for Japan. Our flight are different, but we will arrive at Narita about the same time. My husband will transit at Copenhagen and I will at Amsteredome where I will use up my € money. On the flight I had a review of my stay in Paris and got to be ready to start again my life in Nikko but with more knowledge and refreshed feeling. As arrival time at Narita will be in the morning, I need to sleep well on board. Good night!)
,
二週間余り経過してやっとパリ旅行のメモ書きが出来た。まだ他にメモすべきこともあるが、ここまでやっておけば多分忘れないであろう。時々読み返して記憶が薄れないよう、何よりも、感動を忘れないようにしたい。留守の間、ミーちゃんと金魚のお世話をして下さった正子さん、ありがとう。
(Two weeks after we came back home, I got finally finished with my work on blog. There are more to write down but this blog would be enough to keep my memory. I will sometimes read it so as not to forget my special and precious experiences. Above all, I will not forget my excitement and impression I got during my trip this time. First of all I would like to thank Masako-san for her kind taking care of Mi-chan, our dear old cat and two small fish.)
0 件のコメント:
コメントを投稿